Couple ideas for yez --
 
Buy a grizzly hen neck instead of streamer hackle. Makes a big difference in movement and how alive the bugger looks.
 
Most tiers will say, Nah, hen hackles aren't long enough. True. That's why you use two hen hackles, wrapping about three times with each. Tie 'em in by the tips. Experiment a bit with which way each hackle faces. I kinda prefer shiny (convex) side forward for the rear hackle. Dull (concave) side forward for the front hackle.
 
You want the Bugger to look alive even in still water. Stiff rooster hackle, even a poor grade, is not suited to this application, although plenty of tiers use it. 
 
If you examine the profile of a bugger tied with rooster hackle and one with hen hackle, you'll have no trouble identifying which is which. The hen is far more prone to active, constant movement underwater. The rooster hackle is finer, stiffer and tapers into almost nada.
 
I use rabbit dubbing instead of chenille for the body.
 
I often counterwind the body and wrapped hackle with very fine wire.
 
At fly fishing shows, I also look for truly bedraggled and cheapo Zonker strips. In place of marabou, I snip off a clump of rabbit -- INCLUDING the underfur -- and tie it in at the tail.
 
I snitched this idea from Rich Osthoff's book, Active Nymphing. His standard prospecting nymph is a #12 mini-bugger using the above recipe. I've just tied up a couple doz in sizes #10 and #8 for the Spring campaign.
 
Osthoff prefers weight on the leader, not the fly, but I'm experimenting with adding weight and BH. I'm thinking it will work.
 
So try it. You might like it. 
 
P.S. A hackle guard is helpful when you tie this fly. My home made version is to take a plastic soda straw ... clip off a section a little less than a hook shank long ... then cut the section lengthwise so it slips over your thread and, when you're ready, slips up over the fly body. It will hold the hackle back while you tie off.