Help with Trolling Setup

If I was to start out, I would get 4 GOOD quality rod holders 4 trolling rods with line counters and set up with 20lb. Fireline. good snap swivels and 17lb. mono leader with 2 large and 2 small dipsy divers. You don't need the riggers. Just the rod holders, poles, line, rods and tackle will run you 400 to 500 dollars

You need to be able to get under 2mph.  Look into gettin troll bags.  This should allow you to do so without buying a kicker.
 
For a beginner 4 dipsy rods.  Set 2 at 3.5 and 2 at 1 and you should be all set.  Might want to invest in some rodholders, tite-loc, big jon, pursuit, or berts custom tackle if you plan on running dipsy rods.  Any local bait shop should be able to help you out.

Thanks for all the advice. 
 
It sounds like I need to get four Dipsey Diver rods to begin with and perhaps a drift sock.  I assume I can use the rod holders installed in the gunnels.

I agree with buying GOOD rod holders cheap ones will just be agravating, and cost you that much more when you buy good ones. Also braided, or super braid, is the way to go on your dipsy rods, wire if you really want to get into it. You many need to buy socks I sometimes have trouble getting my 125 under 2.5. Get TWO socks, one makes steering very tough, even in calm water. I have oversized caribiners that I hook to my front rail. Take time to adjust the length so the they don't go back to far, and interfere eith your lines, or prop. BEFORE you start fishing. A second rope tied to the back of the bags, will make pulling them much easier.

Hands down catch more dipsy fish for the last 2 years on mono.  ALWAYS catch the largest steelhead on the way out mono dipsy.  As you get farther away from the boat, there are fish higher in the water column which is a lot of times where bigger, more active fish are located.  It isn't always about getting deep.  You will catch most of your walleyes between 30 and 50 feet down.  In the salmon world, that is why they use mono divers as "high" divers, targeting out of temp kings and steelhead and coho that reside higher in the water column.  They aren't always a pain to trip if you adjust your tension screw accordingly.  I don't think I have ever run them back more than 180 or 185 on a 3.5 and they catch fish...period. 

I am in the same spot as this guy.  I been fishing for the perch for a couple years but finally got a good 9.9 to troll with. I have 2 dipsy rods i just do not know the first thing to setting them up to troll for eyes.  If anyone could e-mail me some help i would really appreciate it.
Thanks

My Yamaha F225 4 stroke trolls beautifully and without the need for any assistance in slowing it down. I do drop the trim tabs and under trim the motor. But at 600 rpm, I can troll 2mph (maybe less) without using a drift sock. I think the prop has alot to do with it. I'm don't know what my prop numbers are off the top of my head, but it's the OEM SS prop that was on the motor when I bought the boat.
 
Last year, I switched to from mono to braided line for my dipsy lines. Big improvement. Now, everything trips the dipsys.
 
For rod holders, I went with Bert's custom tackle tracks and rod holders. Bert's products seem like real quality stuff to me. I also liked Bert's tracks because when not in use, they have a step insert (made of marine starboard) that looks real nice. I have Tite-lok on my smaller boat, but I like the Bert's better because the Tite-lok require a hex wrench for adjustment / removal.
 
I've done much better off dipsys the last couple years than I have off downriggers. I don't know why though. If your just starting out, maybe you could consider just running several dipsys before investing in downriggers.
 
 

ORIGINAL: Crack

You don't want to mess with your prop too much. If you do it is a good idea to go to a Marina that deals with you specific outboard. If you get the wrong pitch on your prop you will either lose a lot of your top end or you will over rev your motor and normally that leads to bad things. Also most outboards you need to keep running at or around 2000 to 2500 for them to charge your batteries. If you are out trolling all day running at 600 rpm hopefully your battery is new or you have a spare. If I am remembering correct the higher your pitch the more top end(speed) you will get the lower the pitch the better out of the hole. If you are going to change props if you buy one with progressive pitch it will adapt better to different situations.

 
Like crack pointed out, you can't just run any prop you choose. There are restrictions on what works, and what doesn't. To give you an example, my Brother bought a 2002 Scout 185 sportfish with a Yamaha F115 on the back. He didn't know whether or not the prop on it was original. But he did experience the infamous F115 making oil problem. Turns out the cause was, the wrong pitch prop not allowing the motor to reach the manufactorer rpm at WOT, and the fuel sensor was supplying fuel as the engine was at WOT, but the motor was not able to use it all since it was turning at too low an rpm at WOT. So the extra fuel makes it's way into the crankcase.
 
The prop I'm running on my F225 does keep the WOT rpm within the manufactorers specified range. It was the prop that came on the boat / motor when I bought it new. The boat manufactorer does alot of testing to determine the correct prop for that boat, and they factory install the motors (with the props). So in my case (with the F225), I have not had to change the prop. Just so happens that it also allows extremely slow trolling. As for the alternator output, the modern outboards have come along way in that aspect. I've been trolling all day long like this and have yet to have a problem with this motor. Same could be said for the MerCruiser in the boat I had before my F225. Same could be said for the Johnson 90hp I had before that. I've never had with the battery draining when trolling all day. I do run a dual battery setup. I always recommend that.