Update On The Jon Boat Project

Got the new transom in yesterday. Man thats a lot of work start to finish. All the decks have been cut out. I hope to lay carpet this weekend.

ALUMALOY welding/brazing Rods are easier to use than most aluminum rods and only need propane.

I spent over $75 on stainless steel hardware for the boat.

Strange that your rivets were that tough to get out, mine weren't bad at all.  Here is a word of advice you may not want to hear, but I don't think you should put stainless bolts in.  I am no metals expert, but I know some and there is sometimes a problem when the two different metals are in contact.  Something or other regarding the galvanic scale and the a bunch of other stuff I don't really know about, but someone here will.  Or google it, sorry....
 
BTW...I know what you mean about the price on that stuff I had over $200 in just screws for the wood on my 24'

ORIGINAL: BIGHEAD

jlh42581    I see you still need to do some wiring. Is what i did on my jonboat was drill a holes at designated spots on the top rail and run the wire threw. Saves on pcv and looks better than seeing pcv running threw the side ribs. Just use mechanics wire to run the wire. Then use garments and marine sealant. I never had any problems for over ten years with this method.   hope this helps   Dave

Dave,

Thanks for the ideas but you will see when i post pics in a couple days that the whole boat has panels, you cant see the wires at all.

As far as the stainless...I know exactly what you mean. I spent a good deal of time doing research where other guys have done these johns a couple of times. All of them recommended the stainless approach. I think someone here mentioned aluminum but I couldnt find aluminum bolts locally. A few other people have done it this way so I assume no one has ever had a problem. I have read that it can be a problem in a salt water environment or if you leave your boat in water for a long period of time. This thing sits on a trailer. Plus, if I see its becoming a problem I can remove them and replace with aluminum... thank god its just bolts now.


Heres something I found

"On my galvanic series, stainless is more noble than Aluminium, which means a small stainless bolt in a large aluminimum structure is the right proportion of metals to limit the galvanic corrosion."

I guess time will tell. They are in now, will be using them.

ORIGINAL: BIGHEAD
 Just use mechanics wire to run the wire

I actually bought marine grade tinned and double coated wire. Cost me about $20 for 50ft on ebay. Nice stuff!

a small stainless bolt in a large aluminimum structure is the right proportion of metals to limit the galvanic corrosion.

Probably wrong-aluminum is similar to the sacrificial zink anodes on an I/O or outboard.
An electrician would never splice aluminum wire to copper for the same reason.

Use nylon washers to minimize contact.

Marine grade tinned and double coated wire is a good idea.
After a few years automotive wire seems to corode inside it's jacket.

ORIGINAL: 2dog

Question about the new transom. Did you bolt the outside and inside piece of plywood? If so, did you use regular washers or fender washers? The fender washers will let you torque down on the bolts without pulling the washer and nut into the wood.

Its bolted strait through both. I used regular washers with lock washers as well. Its torqued, they didnt sink far. Im going to put up a ton of pics for you guys sometime this week.

Can't wait to see some pics.

I finished it tonight. Put the last seat in. Well, I shouldnt say finished, the livewell isnt done but Im undecided. I kinda want the storage.

Ill put them up when I wake up. It looks pretty good in my opinion. I have to put my new fenders and tires on and then its headed to the lake.

Theres not too many step by step pictures but I will be willing to answer any questions anyone has about the build, ANYTIME.