Boat weight to HP ratio

Anyone happen to know of a good source for figuring if a certain size motor will get a certain size boat on plane?  Trout About's 20HP has me salvating...  I'd need to buy the remote conversion kit, so a pretty good investment, to find out that it still isn't big enough.  Doing some reading, it looks like mine is about 850lbs dry weight.  I do plan on getting an actual weight done at some point.  Toss two guys, gas, battery, trolling motor & equipment = approx. 600lbs.  I'm guessing the hull design plays a bit of a factor too.  It is a V, but not deep V and definitely not a bass boat.  Anyone think it will plane, or just looking at a more expensive slightly faster barge?

You rule duud.  I'll be talking to my buddy tomorrow about the hoist.

EM -
 
That sucks, but I'm not too surprised.  I think it is right on the cusp.  Maybe get me on plane by myself, but barge with company and fishig gear, which is 95% of my time on the boat. 
 
Talking to guys with Tracker Pro's with 20hps - same length, they are just getting on plane with 2 guys and gear.  Going from what I find on the internet, it appears they are about 750lbs and mine is 850lbs (1988 Grumman 5.0 series - side console - 16.5').  Not sure how accurate the data on mine is, due to it being an old boat with old figures.  My buddy is a cop with certified scales, so I plan to weigh it when I start my to do list on it this Fall.
 
Pretty sure the max rating for mine is 100HP.  There is a 50HP on it now that I plan to pull, which has no issue getting on plane, but probably still under powered.  I plan to pull that motor, and try to do some other modifications to get the weight down.  Everything that I have read on replacing the decking, pretty much points back to wood and resin.  Not much else lighter, that doesn't have a bunch of other issues to deal with.  I have been giving some thought to composite decking, but haven't figured out the weight difference yet.  I'm going to plan to cut down on storage, which seems to just collect junk, and adds weight.  Not sure if I can trim 100lbs or not from unloaded, but know for a fact, that I can trim 100 from the junk I have on it.

Hate to say it, but I agree... not gonna plane... But anything is worth a shot if TA is willing to bolt it up and try it what do you have to lose?

I was pretty shocked to read only 100lb difference, I'm guessing that isn't correct.  I'm wondering if taking my 50hp off is really going to do much either?  Do you think lifting the 50 would do much if I stick with my 15 and obviously not getting on plane?  I've read it weighs 180 in some sources and closer to 300 in others?  I'd love to get that thing in good running order, and hit up the perch packs...  Although, I think Erie fishing is 10+ years down the line for me, with a much more suitable ride. 
 
Also while thinking about my decking, would EnviroTex Lite work for a coating of marine grade (works nice for lure crafting)?  It is much more pleasant to work with than fiberglass resin, especially in an integrated garage.  Also, when people glass the deck boards, do you use the cloth too or just the resin?
 
 

If 1/2" on roofs @ 24" o.c. is good enough (new decking on my addition roof was pretty solid with that), I think 1/2" @ 16" for your floor would be good enough for constant walking (as long as you support the edges too with redwood strips or something cut to match your hull). If you are thinking of going the wood/glass route, personally, I'd spend the extra $ and save the time and just get the starboard.  All depends on how much your time is worth it to you. To me, that seems like overkill unless that is the look you want...no carpet, I assume.  If you don't plan on keeping the boat forever, I'd do MP and carpet or MP and coat it with white or gray bedliner.  That will give it a nice, textured surface and protect it from water intrusion and not get too hot.  I'd paint all sides and double or triple coat the edges.
My brother did the bottom of my dad's 14' aluminum boat (inside) with bedliner and it sealed up the leaky rivets and actually looked pretty nice.  Only downside was he used black and it got REALLY hot in the dog days.

Use CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) on the plywood and then paint or carpet it. It's easy to work with but is a little smelly so make sure you have lots of ventilation. Don't think it would add much if any weight to the wood. Seal all screw holes with 5200 and it'll outlast you, well me anyway...
 
Try here http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do lots of good info and products for rebuilds...

The CPES is not UV stable so where exposed it has to be covered...

The bed liner only needs one coat but he used a brush to get in all the nook and crannies along the corners, stringers and rivets before he rolled the rest. It goes on really thick. Make sure to get one with a flat finish.