Fly rig

So, like many of you said would happen.  I got a guide last year and mainly used the fly rod, so I am looking to buy one now.  I found two from LL Bean that looked reasonable.  Both in 9wt, one was around $140, and the other around $220.  It is the rod, reel, backing, line, and taper?  Is 9wt good enough for up there?  Anything special I need as in fancier line?  What about pre-looped line and leaders?  Also, what is the fly/bait of choice for the kings?  I know last year we used different flies and some colored bubble looking things.  I'm sure there are much better combos than I'm looking at and some worse, but I will only be using it once a year, and LL Bean has a very good warrantee.  Any thoughts?
 
 

Like Chartist said keep in mind the weight and action of the rod if you plan on using it for Steel.   I have a Cortland Pro cast 8 weight  ($100 and lifetime warranty) that has a slower action that is good for steel, but on the border for Salmon.  I just bought an Cortand graphite 8/9 weight ($55)  with a faster action that will work better for salmon, my buddy has one and has abused it on Salmon .  Both are 9 footers.   I can't tell you alot about line but a weight forward floating line is a must.  I size one size up and  I had good luck with Cortlands Salmon and steel taper last year.   As far as flies the sky is the limit on selection, but I have heard for salmon Estaz flies in various colors do well and you just have to find what color they like.   The bubbles you used were probably beads.  Salmon will bite eggs to destroy them.   For only one time a year choose according to budget.  The drag is the most important part of the reel.   I had excellent luck with Cortland Sterling 8/9 for a mid level  ($169) and OKuma SLV 7/8  ($75) for entry.  I just got a Cortland Procast  9/10 on clearance for $30 loaded and will try it out.   Taper is leader I am guessing you can get the pre made ones in 14 to 16 lbs.  When they break off at the end you can get some Flouro tippet in 14 to 16  and tie it on with a swivel.
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Also, is the difference between tippet and leader, leader is a pre-cut section of material, where as the tippet is just a spool of the material?  Also, a lot of them are measured either with a 2X, 3X, etc., or weights, or both.  What is this?

http://www.flyfishusa.com/tackle-tips/leaders/about-leaders.html
http://www.flyfishusa.com/leaders/x-designation.html
http://www.flyfishusa.com/leaders/maxima.html#Formulas
dtrobe, these three threads may help clear things up for you.
 

I am guessing the small leader with a loop is for a loop to loop connection. That is how  I do mine.    http://killroys.com/knots/loop-to-loop-connection/
If your leaders do not have a loop use a surgeons loop, quick and easy.
http://www.animatedknots.com/surgeonsloop/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
This is an excellent site for knots.
 
 
If it is a tapered leader do not use a swivel.   It is heavier test 25 to 30lb at the butt  (looped )  end and 16lb at the other.  Just tie you fly to the end. After you break off a few times  your leader will be smaller and smaller.   Then tie a tiny swivel and a section of 16lb tippet.   I usually tie on a 24 to 30 or so inch tippet (I would go no shorter) .   I like my leader a little longer than 9 feet.   so If I broke of a foot of the 9 foot leader I would tie on 24 to 30 inches of tippet after the swivel.  Weight goes on tag end at the swivel.  I usually take a 3 inch piece of junk line (small lb test)  tie it in a circle and loop it to the swivel.  That way if the weight gets caught in a rock the small test will break off and you will save you leader and fly
 
Don't really use   indicators that much, but it all goes on water depth.   Need the fly where the fish are.   Mend the line with or without the indy.  Do not want the line pulling the bobber or fly
I do not have really good luck with salmon, but I would use anything from a 6 to a 10 for them.   Estaz, comets , popsicles, eggs,  beads, wolly boogers , egg sucking leach, even nymphs  ect ect ect.  All goes on color and size.  What they like one day, not so much the next.
 
Maybe some others will chime on their favorites and such.

As far as the tippet  yes and maybe.   Is the seaguar tippet material or just line.   You can  use regular line for tippet, but often tippet line is made to better tolerances more consistent breaking lb. and it is more supple.   Also when you compare the same diameter of fluorocarbon line with fluorocarbon tippet, the tippet material is stronger. That means you can use a thinner tippet of the same strength and get a more supple tippet that will give a more natural drift.  Flouro vs mono is another discussion......
 
Mending is what is needed to get the belly of the line behind the fly so the line is not pulling the fly and the fly is naturally drifting the same speed of the water.   The current on top is faster than on bottom and if the floating line is in front of the fly is will drag the fly across the bottom faster than the current.  Sometimes these fish are tuned in and that fast than the current fly will turn them away from it
http://midcurrent.com/techniques/a-mending-primer/
 
The indicator is for strikes and to sometimes hold the fly at a consistent depth.   I really only use them in slower pools for steel
 
Took me MANY  MANY trips to start to be comfortable with my fly pole and several ended in frustration.   I still have alot to learn and I stress ALOT.   I really enjoy tying my own flies and it is quite satisfying to catch something on a fly you created.   That said If you are only making one trip up to the river a year I  would still bring your spin rod and split time.  It takes time to learn , but also when the frustration creeps in you can fish with the spin rod for a while.   Confidence in your presentation goes a long way,  as the exact same fly presented a little differently  could be the difference . 
 
 
 
 

First I have to say it was very difficult to log on the site. It won't allow my phone in and gave my lap top a fit so I'm hoping for the best.. Maybe why db is MIA ?
 
Clint pretty much nailed it as did 2 bob..
My rule of thumb on salmon was 1 in 10 you might find a player.. And thats when they are moving good and the Mojo is working.. I have seen Jacks mojo :) 
If they are holding in sucker pools, 1 in a million.. well everyone hopes to win the lotto right ?  lol
 
But we are determined fishermen in presuit of big game, at least I like catching 1..
Here are my ploys:
Find active new fish that are pushing out holding fish..watch fish move and how they react.. don't stand in a spot where fish just go by or hold in ones,twos .. find where they will interact with other fish..
 
The Gear:
Read ALL the REGULATIONS for the Salmon River or waters you wish to fish..( can someone please post a link) .. It seems basic but areas and regs are different ,such as fly zones and DSR.. Know the rules going in..
You seemed to do well on selection.. I'm not sure about what reel you have but you will know quickly if it's sufficent..
Leader/ tippet:
I'm with you on the pre made tapered leader.. I used tomake my own and struggled through a few today but pre-made , 9' 15 lb sweet tapered is good for me at 3-$12.00.. Always carry tippet material.. This time of year , 15# & 10# is all good.. Need not be fluro..
Forget the swivel except for what Clint said if your tapered leader gets chewed down.. Swivel will come later when water temps drop and trout are hugging bottom..
For salmon I like to be above or as a wise man said "swing it across their face" .. I dont like to be bottom bouncing now and as result very little tackle is lost..
The thing bobber:
it's used for a slow deep presentation.. Yea a bobber..lol Not very effective on salmon but works well when water is very cold and snag infested areas.. If you wish to try it out I will say it will kink your leader when you take it off..
Basically find an inside seam 4-5' deep along some deeper water .. Pinch a tiny loop in your leader and thread it through the hole on the thing then open the loop big to slip over it..Set it for 1 to 1 & 1/2 times depth, I'd stick with 1..  and cast 2 oclock up stream. when it hits the water either throw line behingd or raise rod high and gather (strip & hold) line as it comes towards you.. As it is 12:00 then give an upstream mend (upstream roll of rod and shoot line) slightly behind to keep bobber flowing at current speed..
Enough bobber talk..
 
Flies:
thats way open to interpatation:
I always liked big streamer flies the fish could see.. Size #4-6
I have caught and seen clinics put on with size 8 estaz / egg (glo bug )flies from good folks here actually fishing.. Trout like a size 8-10 egg..
Good luck there as I have hundreds in my box and probably none of them will work..lol
I do hear tell some trout have hit the bank and not the stringer.. Kudos Jack :)
 
Good luck and have fun..
Peace & Tuna
 
 
 
 

dtrobe-  Just keep in mind that if you fish DSR you need a "line break" between your leader and tippet with either a swivel or a barrel knot.  See the DSR webpage for Rules & Regulations.

I attended a bass seminar a couple of years ago and the guest speaker, Hank Parker, said that Vanish was the worst line that Berkeley ever made, poor knot strength.

As far as the Vainsh  I had fair luck with it.   I had a spool of 10lb given to me, spooled a spinning reel and used it for the middle section of my leaders .   It never  broke while fighting a fish but it broke when often when getting snagged especially at the knots.   I will be switching to Seaguar or maybe even  Just try a mono leader with Trilenr XT

I use Pline flora in 4# to 12# depending what you are after and conditions.Because I'm a frugal person I buy it on the large spools at All Seasons and it is way cheaper that way.The Pline is the BEST value out there bar none.There are times that I use the 6# on Salmon and unless I put extreme pressure on the fish it holds to the end.When I use the 10# I can put as much pressure on them as I want and the line holds unless a tooth or rock nicks it.Always moisten the knot before tightening it when using flora.
Well today I'm going to tie a bunch of flies for my next trip this Sunday,hope the Salmon are moving by then.
 

Eggs dry? No.
On the west coast they use much bigger stuff than here.
Of course I fish lots of big streamers on a #2 hook.
Please PM me that guides name.

estaz comets
why not just tie them yourself?  they are super easy and what you would spend on materials would be way cheaper than buying them

Even a once a year trip during silly season can cost you a large number of flies if the fishing is fast and furious.  Learn how to tie through your local TU chapter, they usually have classes over the winter.  There is nothing more rewarding than taking a trout or salmon on a fly created by your imagination and two hands.