weighted Reef Runners

Probably using inline weights or snap weights on deep divers...but just assuming. 
 
For inlines (beadchain or torpedo weights with eyes on both ends), a 5'-6' leader of 12# to 20# fluoro to a small, black snap should be fine. 
 
You can weight the jets to get them deeper too.  We'd use the beadchain weights that have the snap on one end and hook that into the deepest setting of the jet.  They'd run 50'+ depending on your speed. 

When you need to get your lures down to 50+ ft, you need to add some weight. When flatlined, a deep diving crankbait has a maximum depth it can run no matter how much line you let out. After you reach that max. lead, letting more line out doesn't give you more depth.

In my experience and talks w/ other knowledgeable fisherman, typically to get in the 45-50 ft range you need a deep diving plug and between 4-6 ounces of weight. It is not an exact science, since snap/inline weights vary based on your troll speed, water currents, and angle of your lines. Different deep diving plugs will also dive to different depths.

I run the weights with a snap clip (Red Offshore Ones w/ pin), but you can use a rubber band too. The snap clips are nice beacuse they are easily removed from the line.

With the Reef Runners, I think that most guys are using the 800 series (Deep Divers). They will troll to a max depth=28 ft without weight.

Our program is to let the lures back 50 ft, clip on a 4 oz snap weight, and then run another 150 ft of lead for a total of 200ft. Then the line is clipped into the release and sent off the boards.

You could use dipseys to get shallow crankbaits down off the boards, but the snap weights are simpler. With the dipseys you have 2 releases to worry about (Dipsey release & Board Release). Also, the snap weights/deep diver set-up pulls way less than a big dipsey!

I've been using snap weights off boards for years, so I understand how they are normally used...I guess what I was confused about is I normally run my shallow lures (15-35') off the boards with either deep divers, or shallow divers in combination with lead core, snap weights or jets (or a combination of lead core/snap weights). Then I run dipsys or riggers on the inside which of course I'm running down closer to the thermocline.
I was assuming (maybe incorrectly it seems ) that guys running the weighted reef runners off boards were fishing relatively shallow (<40') and I didn't understand why you'd need to weigh a reef runner because as Lovgren stated you can target fish in the 35' range with a lure 28' deep...I was wondering if perhaps they were using shallow reef runner ripsticks and needed the weight to get them a bit deeper. In addition, from experience the more you have to mess with popping a snap weight off using the 50/50 method when fighting a fish, the more chance you have of losing it vs. a jet which is pretty idiot-proof (I should know )
If guys are fishing 50' down off the boards however, I guess running snap weights would be easier than having a bunch of 50 jets pulling those boards down. Thanks for the responses guys.

ORIGINAL: eyesandgillz

Bogey, you don't mix and match set-ups on the same boards, do you?  To limit tangles and clusters, it is best to run all the same thing on the same board so everything is running at the same depth.

eyes...only on inlines. On my big boards I run the same things and vary lead length. Although, I like to run way different setups on each side and let the 'eyes tell me what's best.

Or better yet, just set up a dipsy equipped with a harness and meat!  A lot simpler.

ORIGINAL: eyesandgillz

I never liked having to mess with using snap weights and adding/removing them and the inline weights just make things a little simpler.  As long as your leader is 5' or more, the action of the lure wasn't affected.  You can let it run next to the boat and check it out before you send it back to make sure.  But everyone has their preferences. 

Bogey, you don't mix and match set-ups on the same boards, do you?  To limit tangles and clusters, it is best to run all the same thing on the same board so everything is running at the same depth.

Again even better than running everything at the same depth off one board run outside lines shallower and inside lines deep, that way when a fish is on it comes up over the inside lines easier and you don't have to let it drop as much before cranking.

ORIGINAL: kingnuke32

ORIGINAL: eyesandgillz

I never liked having to mess with using snap weights and adding/removing them and the inline weights just make things a little simpler.  As long as your leader is 5' or more, the action of the lure wasn't affected.  You can let it run next to the boat and check it out before you send it back to make sure.  But everyone has their preferences. 

Bogey, you don't mix and match set-ups on the same boards, do you?  To limit tangles and clusters, it is best to run all the same thing on the same board so everything is running at the same depth.

Again even better than running everything at the same depth off one board run outside lines shallower and inside lines deep, that way when a fish is on it comes up over the inside lines easier and you don't have to let it drop as much before cranking.

 
But what do you do when that outside shallow line gets a hit and you need to slide the inside deep one out?  If you keep everything the same on one side and put everything back the same distance before you send it out on the big board, you can just keep on truckin' as you land fish.  The extra line to the outside board line will allow it to swing clear of the inside lines (plus a little planing help from the fish) as long as you don't start cranking on it right away and just keep tension on it.  Everyone has their preferences though, just the way we used to run them. 
 
Does everyone on here run all their board line rod holders vertical ?  I have seen some posts with guys running board line holders at varying angles and that doesn't make sense to me.  If all the set-ups are the same on one side of the boat running the same gear and the rods are vertical, it is very easy to tell when you have a "rider" on a rod and it hasn't released.  Especially true when running meat and the white bass and perch become pests.

If I'm runnin' 6 to 8 rods, which I normally do, I typically do not have the need to run boards....certainly am equipped with them, as you know, but won't use them until I feel the need to.  Hasn't happened to me yet.  I'm sure I'll be using them more next season, in shallow.

ORIGINAL: KilDux

I just try to stay in shallow and catch walleye in 10-12 FOW all season to make it easy.  We weight our boards with splitshot.  HA!

 
Or you can come out and hang wit us out deep and have rods flying....No farm animals..All big feesh and dey hungry...
 
You seem to like the shallow game better...You don't like dipseys huh???

5 colors lc doesn't mean anything to you guys whenever buckets posts his reports? Braid off the spool then 5 colors of lead core finished off with mono. Whoever figured that out is hard core and gets the job done!!!!!!!!!!!!

Trust me lol. I call not it realin in 6 board lines of 400 ft plus. I will slap 5 oz of weight on anyday. You can think what you what. Its the way to do it. It catches fish. Why change it. If it don't catch fish we will adapt til then, have fun realin lol

Precisely why I don't bother myself fishing lake Ontario!