slick trick broadheads

8 year and running N.A.P 100GR Spit fires 3 blad hit them with that and you be painting the wood with blood. Never lost a deer yet. 70lbs 2315 xx75 punch power baby.

Drake,friend of mine used them once.Had a pass through on a doe but 2 of the 3 blades broke off in the deer.It was an easy broadhead lung shot,might have hit a rib but the blades are pretty flimsy..I went to Wasp Boss 100's 3 years back,3 bucks ,3 shots ,3 complete pass throughs, 3 dead bucks and all 9 blades intact and realisticaly could have been shot again..Very accurate out of a fast tuned bow and a might bit cheaper than the slick tricks.Ray

Thanks for the info griffon. I've read good reviews for slick tricks, but wanted to hear thoughts from guys who aren't trying to sell them, before I buy them.

Tricks are a great broadhead Dan.

shot them last year and i wasnt impressed at all hit a doe at 20 yards right behind the shoulder got down an tracked the thing until 4 am was a great shot its just they dont put a very big hole in them. After that went back to my grim reapers

ORIGINAL: braaap@aol.com

shot them last year and i wasnt impressed at all hit a doe at 20 yards right behind the shoulder got down an tracked the thing until 4 am was a great shot its just they dont put a very big hole in them. After that went back to my grim reapers

 
Did you use the same blades for practice as the ones that went into the deer?

dpms
 
I doubled lunged a doe two years ago with an arrow, I had been pulling in and out of my quiver all season (new blades at the beginning of the season) .. there was not a drop of blood on the white arrow, white fletching, or white nock..
 
No blood trail.  She fell 20 yards away.  Opened her up, punctured both lungs.
 
Without seeing the arrow go in or hearing that deer fall, I could have thought that I missed cleanly, other than the fact the arrow had a misty smell. 
 
Veins, arteries hit with a dull blade will clot very quickly.  And that's if the blade even cuts them.  Sometimes the veins get "pushed" out of the path.
 
In his situation, it very well could have been dull blades.

Weren't some of the rage heads recalled last year because the blades weren't opening? It seems this is consistant with braaaps experience.

I talked to the owner of a local archery shop after archery season last year, he said a lot of guys had good success with the rage heads, and others complained that they didn't open completely. My concern with them would be that a 2" cutting diameter would not allow good penetration.

On broadheads, my thoughts are this.... If someone kills a deer with a broadhead, and the deer drops quickly, that person will likely tell everyone they know that the broadhead is really good or the best out there. On the other hand, if someone shoots a deer with a broadhead, and it doesn't die very quick, or they don't find the deer, the blame is automatically put on the head, and not the shooter. I can't tell you how many times i've heard or read someone say or write "don't buy _______ broadheads, because I shot a deer with one and never found it". I've even read similar statements in the past years on this board. I have a friend who 2 years ago decided to switch to the same mechanicals that I had been using with good results. After the first deer he shot with one ran out of sight, and was never seen again, he automatically blamed it on the broadhead and said "it must not have opened when it hit". The next day we found his arrow sticking in a tree with no sign that it even hit the deer. To this day, he still says mechanicals are crap.

Its quite simple with any broadhead, hit the deer in the lungs or heart and
you will find the deer. Hit it anywhere else and your odds go way down.
its a fact.

ORIGINAL: braaap@aol.com

You guys can think what you want but i gave the deer 2 hours before i started looking for it and it was a perfectly placed shot its just the hole was about the size of a nickle or a little bit bigger and it closed up and there wasnt mush of a blood trail at all a few drops every 20-30 yards or so. Im just saying that i wouldnt suggest shooting them.

 
But I do care what you're telling us and applaud your effort to continue searching.  Many guys would have given up in your situation.  I believe you are telling us you wouldn't shoot slicktricks again but it's because you are misinformed, not the broadhead.   I don't think that was the problem.   You just don't get a few drops of blood with a well placed shot with really sharp blades.  If you said the arrow was right behind the shoulder, then I'm not going to question the placement.  Dull blades are a bit less obvious and are overlooked by the majority of bowhunters.  Yes, that's right, I said majority.   The % of folks that are reading this don't use practice blades then put the new ones on right before the season opener.  Even less check the sharpness going into November during the season.  I learned what a quiver can do to blades and am fortunate it was a great shot.  Since you didn't answer the question, I can only guess the blades were used as practice and hunting.  Perhaps you can get away with this with grim reapers, but that doesn't mean slick tricks don't let much of a blood trail. 
 
Air, overtime will also dull blades.  We use an unshot broadhead that has been exposed to air for a few years for hunter/trapper and bowhunter education for demo's.  It does not cut the rubberbands at all while new blades cut on contact.
 
A well placed shot with good penetration with sharp blades will scatter blood everywhere, no matter the broadhead.
 
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=2885736&mpage=1&key=&#2887053
 
 
btw... I don't shoot slick tricks, nor to I have any connection with them.
 
Good luck.

okay.  They could have been dull blades that you put on.  Perhaps from the factory or they could have been exposed to air for a while.  Like D said, something is missing here and it's not the actual broadhead.  Whatever the case, glad you're changing blades.  I do too, and learned one time, that wasn't enough.  So now they get checked every two weeks and only the point touches the foam on the quiver.  It may sound a little anal but after what happened, I am anal.      I never had that problem before, yet did nothing different from before.  The blades were tested but that wasn't enough apparently.

talons work very well also

a friend uses the reapers, he talks highly of them

I've been looking at the G5 line. They look like well made heads. Anyone tried them? I'm considering the tekan.

Wac'ems are much better than slick tricks they hit exactly the same as field points at 20 and about an inch different at 30. Reapers are probably some of the best mechanicals on the market. I would suggest you stay away from G5 products. Tekans don't open well and the fixed blades are really dull. If you want a montec stlye head I would suggest the hell raiser instead, way sharper. Muzzys are just plain old reliable can't go wrong with one. If you are having trouble with steering your broadheads the same as your field points try a 5" helical feather fletch then you can shoot anything.