2011 Alumacraft Classic 165

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jmat
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2012/04/22 12:20:05 (permalink)

2011 Alumacraft Classic 165

I just purchased a 2011 Alumacraft 165 with a Yamaha 20 4-stroke. I can only get about 7-8 mph (GPS)out of it with 2 guys and some gear and only 8-9 mph by myself. Any ideas as to how I can get it up to 12-13 mph with 2 guys. My last boat was a Fisher 16' with a 9.9 bumped up to 15 hp 2-stoke and I was able to get it to 15 mph, no problem, out of it with the same 2 guys and gear. Could this boat have the wrong prop on it? Or are 4-stokes just that much slower? I tried all four pin setting on the motor angle and nothing.
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    Road Runner
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/22 15:40:22 (permalink)
    That sounds about right to me with the 4 stroke 20. I have an alumacraft lunker 165 with a 4 stroke 15 horse with 2 guys and gear I move at a slow crawl
    #2
    bulldog1
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/22 17:14:09 (permalink)
    Look down a few threads, there is a discussion about propeller dilemma it may help you...
    #3
    bigesox11
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/24 13:43:31 (permalink)
    You need to find out what RPM the motor is running at when at wide open throttle (WOT), with just you in the boat, all of your gear and maybe only 1/2 tank of gas. (Depending on your fuel tank size, you probably don't need a full tank of gas. This will cut down on some weight) You also need to know your motor's max RPM (usually between 5000 - 5600rpm). Note your motors RPM's when on plane and at WOT. You will then know if you can drop down in pitch if your motor is not at max rpm. Every 1" drop in pitch will result in roughly a 150-200rpm increase. And of course, every 1" increase in pitch will result in roughly a 150-200rpm decrease. For instance, if you're only running at 5200rpm, you will be able to go down by 2" in pitch to get you motor running at 5500-5600rpm.
    #4
    Lundking
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/24 16:54:57 (permalink)
    I would say prop issue for sure..

    Save a horse, ride a Lund
     
    Friends don't let Friends fish for Trout (Stockies that is..)

    #5
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/29 14:53:53 (permalink)
    Bigsox I currently have a Yamaha F20 with a 9 1/4 x 8-J prop. At WOT it is hitting around 5500 rpm. Engine is rated at 5000-6000 rpm. Will a lower pitch prop increase speed. Read on another threat where a guy increased his speed by 4-5 mph with a 4-Blade prop. DO you believe this is possible? Or am I stuck going 8-9 mph for the rest of my life? I would think increasing the pitch would give more speed and a lower pitch would give more power out of the hole.
    #6
    anzomcik
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/29 19:48:51 (permalink)
    I was the guy who told Jerry in the other post to go with a four blade prop. So yes i fully believe the fourth blade makes a big difference. With that said that statemtn isnt a blanket for everyones case.

    Did you read all of my posts on that thread? Because alot of that can be useful to you in your sitution.

    The major difference for you is that you currently can not plane the boat out with the stock prop. Where as Jerry could plane out but one prop stuggled to plane and hte other prop over reved the motor. So he was looking for a fit inbetween two props. He picked up the MPH because a four blade is more efficient due to surface area.

    Props can be thought of as gearing for boats. Sometimes you get more speed out a lower pitch prop, like sometimes riding a ten speed bike you might be able to go faster in a lower gear (because it is easier to pedal, you will pedal more rpm but doing less work. Ever try not down shifting up a hill you may be in a thearritical faster gear but you cant push it to that speed)

    Honestly I would make sure you are properly set up with the motor before you start swapping props. Get the motor set up on the boat correctly (it maybe, I dont know because it isnt in front of me).

    Once everything is set up correcltly, then make a you need to make a choice on props. IMO somthing does not sound correct with your RPM so high and your slow speed. Again it isnt in front of me. but somthing seems off from what i read.
    #7
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/29 20:13:13 (permalink)
    anzomcik,

    I have tried 3 of the pin positions working from the bottom pin up. I did not try the fourth yet. Also when they mounted my enging they bolted it on so I can't adjust the height. The only thing I have left is trying a different prop. I wish you could try them before you buy them though lol. I just don't know what else to try. I have a 18 gallon tank and usually keep it half to 3/4 full. I have two batteries on the boat, one in the front and one in the back and thats about it as far as any substantial weight. I don't know of any other way to set it up.
    #8
    anzomcik
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/29 20:24:04 (permalink)
    a rule of thumb is you want the antivent plate on the motor to be the same level, and parrallel with the bottom of your boat. That should be a starting point.

    If the antivent plate isnt level, i would unbolt it and shim it up to have it level. It is a propper way to ahve the motor mounted. Parrallel the antivent plate to make sure the direction of thrust is in the most efficient angle.

    Be sure to have the weight distributed correctly. I know you said your tank and one battery are in the rear and another battery is in the front, But other gear can really add up. So double check that, even remove the unnessary items for the sake of testing.

    That is a good starting point.

    A thought i have, have you hit anything with your prop? You may have a spun prop causeing the to free spin at higher loads but acts normal at slow speeds.
    #9
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/29 21:30:02 (permalink)
    I have not hit anything yet. Infact the boat is new and only has about 20 hours on it. The paint is still white on the prop. When you say antivent what are you refering to? Thank you so much for your help.
    #10
    anzomcik
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/30 06:21:14 (permalink)
    In laymens terms it is the flat wide part of the casting that is part of the lower unit. It is right above the prop. It is the placce people attach the "whale tails" hydrofoils on to. Which if you have not done it yet, dont do it, not yet at least.

    Can you verify that the tach you have is reading correctly? Maybe check it with another tach, or have a good feeling that 5500 rpm really sounds like 5500 rpm? Because some tachs you can set for two stroke, four stroke, 2cylinder, 3 cylinder, 4 cylinder, 6cylinder... It may be set incorrectly and giving us a fasle direction in which to head on figuring this out.

    When you are pwoering the moter up when driving the boat around, does the motor noise at some point go from like a motor pushing a load to a like the load has been removed and revs up alot faster? I am asking this to see if maybe the prop has spun like i said before, or maybe you are getting alot of venting in the prop.
    #11
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/30 13:10:21 (permalink)
    H3

    What prop pitch did you go with? Are you using the Solas prop?
    #12
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/04/30 20:10:57 (permalink)
    H3 that would be great. It sounds like if you have the 9" pitch and are only getting 5100 RPM then it sounds like an 8" may be better. Please let me know how you make out. Do you have the Alumacraft Classic 165? It runs more like a plow than a boat lol. Thanks to both of you guys.
    #13
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/01 19:47:35 (permalink)
    ANZOMCIK,

    The antivent plate is just about 1" below the very bottom of the boat.
    #14
    anzomcik
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/03 16:09:02 (permalink)
    Ok that isnt to bad.

    Set the trim to have the antivent plate parrallel to the bottom of the boat.

    That should be the most efficient setting for the motor.
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    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/03 18:41:57 (permalink)
    Andrew thanks I will set it at that position when I head up tomorrow night. Will let you know how I make out. Thanks again.
    #16
    anzomcik
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/03 20:17:35 (permalink)
    When you are out, play around with how the boat is loaded. I know when i am trolling my boat i can pick up or lose .5 mph just for where a person sits.

    also try to hear if the motor really sounds like it is spinning over 5k. and how it revs up when you slowly add throttle. You would be looking for it to gain alot of high end rpm real fast. That would be big if infact it has a spun prop or vent really bad.
    #17
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/05 20:35:44 (permalink)
    Andrew,

    I was out last night. I found she ran best with the pin in the second from the top. The prop did not spin out. It was a slow gradual climb up to the max HP. My actual RPM maxed out at 5400. So I still have some room there. I did play around with moving some weight around and there were no noticable gains. In fact i took the front battery out. The water was calm and very little wind and I weigh 255 lbs and my friend weighs around 225. We got it up to about 7.9 mph on the gps. Even with a perfect prop I don't think I will ever get to 14 or 15 mph however 11 or 12 would be very nice.
    #18
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/05 20:36:53 (permalink)
    H3 how did you make out today with your mph test?
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    anzomcik
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/06 09:13:32 (permalink)
    Where you are at is on the verge of planing. If you can reach the point of where you are planing I bet the boat would go 16-18mph. But it seems like with the hull you have and the hp you have it might not happen.

    If you wanted a hail mary you could drop the prop pitch back an inch or two and add a forth blade. That may not get you on plane (it may, no way to know unless you try it) But it would give you a slower troll.

    Normally if setting the motoro correct doesnt plane you a prop generaly isnt the difference maker.
    #20
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/06 11:33:34 (permalink)
    Andrew

    Thats what I was afraid of. H3 has the exact same boat as I do so waiting to hear back how he did with a 4-blade.
    #21
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/07 20:15:13 (permalink)
    Thanks H3. Were you able too get up on plane? I am wondering if I should go with the 7 pitch.
    #22
    Bogeyjoker
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/07 21:13:31 (permalink)
    @ 9mph I doubt he was on plane, but I bet he was very close.  All the 16' deep v's I've ever owned (Lund, Starcraft, and Crestliner...all heavy boats) have got up on plane between 9 and 10.5 mph.  And like Anzomcik said...if you do get on plane you'll probably do mid to upper teens. 
    #23
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/09 20:24:17 (permalink)
    I would really love to hear the outcome of that. Please keep me posted.
    #24
    JerryS
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/13 01:03:34 (permalink)
    jmat,

    Wanted to give you an update on my new prop performance. It has been a real learning experience on how weight sensitive our boats are with marginal powered outboards. Lake conditions are also a big factor. Things that did not matter much when I had a 40 hp.

    If you recall, on my original thread, I was getting 18-19 mph gps speed with three people (total weight 400 lbs), three gallons of gas and a starting battery.

    Last weekend with my trolling battery installed, gas tank topped off(6 gal), and all fishing gear I was getting 15-16 mph up at Presque Isle. I think the trolling battery in the bow was the main culprit since my bow seemed lower while on plane.

    This week at Pymy, with 10-12 gal in my livewell, I was doing approx 13 mph when motoring into the wind on a choppy lake. Boat could not achieve plane.

    As some have mentioned here and on my thread, I have found the secret to speed is getting on plane. Once on plane the speed increases rapidly. If the weight of the boat or lake conditions inhibit planing, the gain from different props may be minimal.

    Now for the really bad news! Last night on pymy my boat ran into one of the infamous shallow sandbars and I trashed the new prop. I ordered another this morning.

    Jerry
    post edited by JerryS - 2012/05/13 01:11:36
    #25
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/13 10:09:19 (permalink)
    Thanks H3

    Sounds like I should go with the 8 then.
    #26
    jmat
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/13 10:18:42 (permalink)
    Jerry,

    Ouch did it do any other damage other than the prop? I know I fish up in the stump fields and it does get dangerous up there. I think the problem with H3 and my boats are they are heavy and tough to get on plane with a 20 hp. I think we are stuck with sub 10 mph performance. What really drives me insane is when some of those guys are up there with the big motors they occasionally crank them up. Sometimes I wish they get caught. I only saw it two or three times over the past five years but they sould be required to pull their prop before they put it on the water. I also wish they would incrase the the hp at pymy to 30 or 40. However I don't know if we will ever see that.
    #27
    JerryS
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    RE: 2011 Alumacraft Classic 165 2012/05/13 10:43:52 (permalink)
    jmat,

    It appears the only damage is the prop and a scratched up skag. Was motoring about 10 mph in about 8 feet of water when, BAM, my motor was knocked out of the tilt lock. Not a pleasant experience with a new motor. My sonar said 1.7 feet. I think I was lucky it was only a sandbar.

    Over the years talking to the Pymy boat dealers, they would love an increase to just 25 hp since their most popular selling boats are heavy 16 footers. I think they realize the 20 hp motors, most being souped-up 15 hp, are right on the edge of the power needed for these boats to plane.

    Jerry

    post edited by JerryS - 2012/05/13 10:44:55
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