Foodplot questions

Pm sent

I too did a small plot that I wouldn’t spray. Clean up the brush and dead wood. Can you get a mower in there? I’d go the throw and mow method at 1st. Clean it up and just mow it a few times this summer and then around late August seed it with winter rye. The local critters will appreciate it and it will help build up the soil. Remember it’s a drawn out process unless you want to dump a ton of money in it.

The key word being "budget" if indeed you need to control stuff like 'poison ivy" (which animals can/do eat) heavy under brush, etc then Roundup is not the best buy.

I'll stand by "Farm Works" non-selective weed control concentrate for both effectivness and money. 2.5 gal concentrate at Tractor Supply. The weed/brush killer has the same ingredients as Roundup annnnd there is no need to buy "specially marked bottles" for select weeds like poison ivy.

Carefully follow the instructons as the herbicide is what it says.."NON-SELECTIVE".

For spot or close tolerance weed control place a soup can or styrofoam cup over the nozzle of the spray wand using a course spray. (course spray is generally recommended to minimize overspray in any condition) Placing a cup or can over the nozzle further limits overspray and will allow for spraying a 'weed' mixed in with the flowers. Another trick, if the budget allows, buy a sprayer having a "bubbler or foaming" applicator tip. Lastly but not leasely, for close application, us as little as pressure as possible. Hold the applicator tip over the target with valve open and slowly work the pressure pump.

For ivy growing up and around trees, not a good idea to spray the tree trunk. Cut the vine at ground height and spray any ivy on the ground. Caution, dead ivy vine still contains the nasty oil. The trick is to stop the ivy from spreading.

Under brush, ivy, etc must have leaves plus bushes and such should be minimal height or a second application may be required for effective control.

Glyphosate is the key ingredient for weed control in most weed/brush killers and must be absorbed by the plant where it settles into the roots and prevents the plant from feeding keeping the plant from returning.

Instructions say to apply at least an hour before any rain. Once the product is dry, it's safe & good to go

HOWEVER, don't expect the area to remain weed free as seed and weed not yet sprouting will take over. Stupid weeds.

Remember to read and follow all the directions & recommendations when using any chemicals.


Mowing the area before the weed goes to seed is the next best solution. Of course, that's a constant job but over time, will prove effective.

Crappie-Slayer, I'd like to recommend making any changes to your newly purchased parcel of land [congratulations BTW]. Be subtle with cleaning up and making any changes. Not that it may happen to you but I did something similar and the deer completely avoided the area.

Cutting a trail is one thing but clearing the area caused problems. It's their house and they know, somethings up, when the furniture has been re-arranged.


Before anybody panics about using non-selective herbicides, even near water. Stop by a local grain farmer and ask "what's on your fields"?

I am by no means an experienced food plot person, so please dont beat me up too bad for offering my thoughts on this....but for some of what you are developing I would seriously consider edging the area with berry bushes such as blackberry, raspberry and blueberry.  Once they get ahold they may keep the undesirables choked out. They can get pretty thick so mowing paths and edges should help.
 Along the same line would be adding apples and paw-paw trees and if you are experiencing swampy pathways or flatland areas a willow tree or two should aid in keeping it drier so 4 wheelers and mowers can get in there without cutting it up too bad. 
You may be able to get a soil sample tested to see what nutrients may be lacking by your local Agricultural cooperative representative... this could save you time and wasted money by avoiding either wrong or unneeded fertilizer or lost seedlings if the soil isn't right for your chosen grasses. 
 I know you are targeting white tails, but the berry bushes should help with small game and bird life and the more rounded the habitat the better. Side benefit could be bee boxes and some great seasonal pies. 

Edit to add: Maybe add a few oak or other nut trees around the area... check with game commission or local ag extension to see if there are any tree planting promotions going on right now. Sometimes saplings can be had for a lot less than what you normally pay through a greenhouse. Any 4H or Future Farmers of America group person should be able to help you find resources.

I had a similar situation — high grass on paths that needed cleared. I rented a walk behind brush hog from the local True Value for about $80 for the day and was able to not only cut that high of grass down to the point of being able to mow it from that point forward, but also made some quick work of some undesirable stuff like privit.

Tools of the trade...

Looking really good..... Dances With Weedeater. 🙉

Ehhhhh.... errr..... uhhhh.....🤔

Maaaaaaybe think about cutting down Japanese Honeysuckle.

https://www.whitetailsunl...ou-already-have.phtml/

Whitetials Unlimited

Having said this, honeysuckle leaves, stems, flowers, and seeds, are a preferred food source for deer, wild turkey, rabbits, quail, woodchuck, and song birds. Also, it serves as cover for many of these species.

Thanks Mike, I didn't want folks thinkin all honeysuckle (though invasive) was a bad thing for wildgame foodplots.

Deer do feed upon the berries of the bush Honeysuckle and for that reason it's said deer help to spread the shrubs.

Bush Honeysuckle is said to easily resprout when cut so it's recommended, stumps be treated with a herbicide.

Thanks everyone. Like I said before, hopefully its pays off and grows. If not ill have a better game plan for the next go 'round. I did drive the 4 wheeler over it some trying to set the seed, but I'm sure I missed some areas.

Coyote, your reply made me go back and inspect said mystery bush some more. Upon further inspection and some reading i actually believe it to be a barberry bush with its needle like thorns, although I may be wrong. Regardless, it's still an invasive and I will most likely introduce it to the chainsaw.

Also, whilst taking the dog for a short walk today I spotted something a ways out that looked like a shed lying on the ground. When I got up to it, it actually turned out to be a few weed stalks laid out just so that deceived me. Dismayed, I looks up and surprisingly there was a shed laying another 10yds out. I'm hoping the guys that dropped this off stops back in and sees me this fall👍

Cool, finding a shed antler like that, looks like a good omen to me.

Keep us updated on your food plot.

Took a little while, but the clover is finally taking off. Battled with the skunk cabbage a few times with the weed eater, had to mow down some of the grass twice now, but the clover looks like its starting to hold its own. Its about what I expected weed wise since I didn't spray any herbacides, but looks better than what it would have been. Mowed it one more time today, and will probably let it take off now for a number of weeks now and see what happens.

Also, some where along the line I read that the clover should be mowed about 6". Since the only thing that I can get in there is a push mower, and you can't buy one with a 6" cut I decided to have the welder at work make me one. This is one jacked up, red neck, foodplot mowing machine 😜

Pretty cool progress C_S!  Boy I hope you had a change of cloths when dealing with that skunk cabbage! 
 
Looks like the deer should be very happy to hang out there, and really love the mower modifications! 

Trust me, when it comes to unpleasant smells sticking in your sinuses for days it is something I am (unfortunately) very familiar with. 
 
Skunk cabbage is horrible... If you have to deal with it again may I suggest a smear of Vicks under your nose to occupy your sinuses while cutting it.