Anyone fish with switch rods?

Going to get myself another addition to my rod arsenal for Christmas and I was considering trying out a switch rod. My current steelhead rod is a 9' 8wt single hand and it works great, but is limited to casting about 50-60' even with a long back cast. Obviously that distance is fine and even excessive for most PA Tribs, but for spots like lower Elk and Conneaut and out of state Tribs like the Catt and even the Oak up on Lake O, I was thinking that a switch rod would be pretty versatile. Could use it for single hand applications in most of the PA creeks and the extra length would even help when I Czech nymph for steelhead by allowing me to put a couple extra feet between myself and the fish. I've even heard that switch rods can be efficient for casting and stripping streamers in still water which would be beneficial for fishing weighted emerald patterns, etc. along the shoreline, in the bay, frog water, and inland waters. On the negative side, I've heard that switch rods can be clumsy to use for single hand applications and be to short for double hand Spey casting, so it's really mixed reviews. Does anyone here use or has used a switch rod in PA Tribs and if so would they recommend one to someone who is proficient at casting a single hand setup?

genieman77
dumb question... what's the difference in a switch and spay rod? ..L.T.A.

Elaborate please. Difference from what I've read is rod length and line weight. Longer and heavier than single hands but shorter and lighter than double hands. Seems pretty versatile to me.

genieman77

Divemaster


Difference from what I've read is rod length and line weight. Longer and heavier than single hands but shorter and lighter than double hands. Seems pretty versatile to me.

 so if i understand that.....the switch is a "tweener" rod?More than a "normal" flyrod, but less than a two hand spay??? I'm just barely functional with a "regular' rod...no need to increase any degree of difficulty for me ..L.T.A.

That seems to be what I've read about them. A lot of western steelheaders choose them so they can just carry a single switch rod with them all day for all applications instead of a single hand rod for nymphs/eggs and a double hand/Spey for swinging streamers. I'd like to go full Spey eventually but don't currently fish large Tribs often enough to invest in a 100% double hand rod.

genieman77
dumb question... what's the difference in a switch and spay rod? ..L.T.A.

Spay rods can't have puppies. 😄

Sorry that one was teed up too perfectly not to hit.

A rod is not magic... it's a tool
A tool that is only as good as the hands its in

If you just want roll cast and wants bit more reach, gets 10ft single handed.
You can get a switchr rod, but you will soon find it to be a pain and the lower grip is a pain using single hand/overhead tactics

I use a switch rod in PA, fished with swing/Spey methods... honestly there are only a handful of spots (determined by flow) where it works ... and those are shot if other people are around

L.T.A....... you getting all this down? Take copius notes neighbor, thar shirley gunna be a test.

Thanks for the information, all. Though 2/3 of this thread seems to be corny jokes haha.

Based on what I'm hearing now, seems like I'd be better off just jumping up to a 10' 8wt for most of the trib fishing around here. Then I could use it as a carp, bass, and sucker rod too, and convert my current 9' 8wt to a streamer setup with a sink tip.

KJH807
a 10ft 6wt would be my choice the extra ft will give you more leverage/pressureI'd think an 8wt would be over kill

I thought about going for a 10' 7wt, but a 6wt is just to light in my experience. Maybe it's just the individual rod, but my 9' 8wt doesn't have much stopping power when a big fish wants to run for a while. I've lost more than one Steelhead in the Manchester hole because one hits and tears a** downstream towards the fast water under the bridge. I try to put the brakes on the fish but ultimately about 50% of the fish I catch that run downstream like that break me off using 7-8# tippet. If you think that the extra 12" of rod will compensate for moving down a weight then maybe I'll try it, but it not I'm sticking to an 8wt, which is also helpful for fishing the NY Tribs for even larger Chromers and Browns.

Combat fishing on Walnut - 8 1/2 ft. 8wt. brings in the meat. Regular sized Battenkill reel
Lower Elk and New York Tribs  - I have an 11 ft. switch that was built in Washington State for fishing the Yakima. Large arbor Kraken reel from Allen Flyfishing I practice two handed casting in a small lake.
Upper Elk - 10 ft. 7 wt. Reddington - large arbor Battenkill
Just broke my 9 ft. go-to last night, still grieving. Two inches from the ferrule on the tip section, it was a non expensive Okuma, but I loved it.
 

by WT i mean action... not physical weight
in a generalization think stiffness
 
an 8wt will be stiffer (takes more weight to bend) than a 6wt
that willingness to bend will allow pressure to be removed from the tippet/knots and absorbed by the rod
add some length and even more rod is available to adsorb stress
 
yes the reel drag protects... but not if you are clamped down 

KJH807
by WT i mean action... not physical weightin a generalization think stiffness an 8wt will be stiffer (takes more weight to bend) than a 6wtthat willingness to bend will allow pressure to be removed from the tippet/knots and absorbed by the rodadd some length and even more rod is available to adsorb stress yes the reel drag protects... but not if you are clamped down 

Yes I'm aware you meant the weight classification and not the actual weight in ounces, sorry that was poor word choice on my part haha. I really only clamp down the reel when the fish is getting close to the point of no return during a fight, such as heading downstream toward a long series of riffles or swift runs, or when the fish is dangerously close to the lines of others that won't remove them from the water. I prefer to let the rod and reel work the fish but that's not always an option.

genieman77

Divemaster
I've lost more than one Steelhead in the Manchester hole because one hits and tears a** downstream towards the fast water under the bridge. I try to put the brakes on the fish but ultimately about 50% of the fish I catch that run downstream like that

 Oh my, if you don't like jokes...let's get serious so, what you describe  sounds an awful lot like 50% of your fish are foul hooked fish and just watdaf0k good is a switch in  a place like the ManHole with azzhole to elbow anglers??are you  I started with a 10ft 6wt RedflyLt wt, slow rod,(as in limpdik soft/flex the whole shaft.I thought it was great (only cause I didn't know what I didn't know) Found a motherlode of like new rods for cheap  at an estate sale .One of them was an Orifis Silver Label Flex tip 9ft 6wt...must faster (stiffer) action  Far superior rod for casting and controlling fish ...it was like night and day for me if you can't roll cast in the Manhole with any rod, you suck worser than meand if you feel the headshake (which I'm dubious of on about 50% of your fish) I'm skeptical if you know  how to control a fish ..L.T.A.

Jokes are fine I just hadn't received any answers yet at that point :). As far as foul hooking, about 1/20 hookups for me is an accidental snag and usually I'll break the fish off immediately since I can tell when they're fouled, when I can't even gain an inch of line on them. Nothing disgusts me more than seeing an "angler" standing in front of a pile of fish and tear a giant hook or lure through them, as if nobody notices what they're doing. Those are the people that get a piece of my mind on the creek, even managed to spook off a couple of "thick accented" folks off Twelvemile last month after I could visibly see them snagging, sucks they didn't stick around for the WCO :D. At one point this season before I got my 8wt (pre late September) I was using my 9' 6wt on the Tribs (before it got stolen on my home creek...) and it casted very well, I just never thought it would be strong enough to handle a steelhead when it's already bent in half with 12" pelletheads. And I can roll cast just fine dude, can back cast just as well when there's a few feet behind me too, my 8wt casts fine for anything less than 50' away it just doesn't have the handling capabilities I need. Which really makes me wonder if it's the rod because the 8' 5wt I use for inland trout can bring them (inland fish) in better and faster than my 9' 8wt can when I'm streamer fishing for those same inland trout.

Divemaster

pafisher
I have a 11' 8wt that I use on the SR in NY,fought and landed many Kings and Coho with it with no problem.It is a Shufly rod and it is very reasonably priced at around $150.Google it and see what you think.

I'll look in to that, thanks!

They are 4 piece with carrying case,extra buts,and very good quality for the price.If you break it they will replace it.

genieman77

Divemaster

genieman77

Divemaster
I've lost more than one Steelhead in the Manchester hole because one hits and tears a** downstream towards the fast water under the bridge. I try to put the brakes on the fish but ultimately about 50% of the fish I catch that run downstream like that

Oh my, if you don't like jokes...let's get serious so, what you describe  sounds an awful lot like 50% of your fish are foul hooked fish and just watdaf0k good is a switch in  a place like the ManHole with azzhole to elbow anglers??are you  I started with a 10ft 6wt RedflyLt wt, slow rod,(as in limpdik soft/flex the whole shaft.I thought it was great (only cause I didn't know what I didn't know) Found a motherlode of like new rods for cheap  at an estate sale .One of them was an Orifis Silver Label Flex tip 9ft 6wt...must faster (stiffer) action  Far superior rod for casting and controlling fish ...it was like night and day for me if you can't roll cast in the Manhole with any rod, you suck worser than meand if you feel the headshake (which I'm dubious of on about 50% of your fish) I'm skeptical if you know  how to control a fish ..L.T.A.

Jokes are fine I just hadn't received any answers yet at that point :). As far as foul hooking, about 1/20 hookups for me is an accidental snag and usually I'll break the fish off immediately since I can tell when they're fouled, when I can't even gain an inch of line on them. Nothing disgusts me more than seeing an "angler" standing in front of a pile of fish and tear a giant hook or lure through them, as if nobody notices what they're doing. Those are the people that get a piece of my mind on the creek, even managed to spook off a couple of "thick accented" folks off Twelvemile last month after I could visibly see them snagging, sucks they didn't stick around for the WCO :D. At one point this season before I got my 8wt (pre late September) I was using my 9' 6wt on the Tribs (before it got stolen on my home creek...) and it casted very well, I just never thought it would be strong enough to handle a steelhead when it's already bent in half with 12" pelletheads. And I can roll cast just fine dude, can back cast just as well when there's a few feet behind me too, my 8wt casts fine for anything less than 50' away it just doesn't have the handling capabilities I need. Which really makes me wonder if it's the rod because the 8' 5wt I use for inland trout can bring them (inland fish) in better and faster than my 9' 8wt can when I'm streamer fishing for those same inland trout.

 not talking about "intentional" linning/lifting/snagginglots of "honest to God" ethical anglers are completely clueless their rigs are foul hooking machines .Clueless to the underwater currents and boils and what their rig does below the surface   rods....let me quote our wise  and traveled friend "A rod is not magic... it's a tool"  In my world of shooting, training and tactics we have a saying"it's the indian, not the arrow" I don't know the action of the rods you useBut if one is bending double on a 12" trout, it's a mushy POS no matter how much it cost or who's name is on it.Look for a stiffer rod... ..L.T.A.

Possible, but like I said I can usually tell when they're fouled because they're tail slapping the line and won't stop running. 90% of the time I'm running a standard double rig with an egg pattern on top and a weighted nymph about 4-12" below that with no additional weight on the rig. The other 10% of the time I use a single super-heavy nymph or small bugger and that's it. Works well for me both for steelhead and for inland trout.

And yeah I think my rod is leaning towards "a mushy POS" haha. Time for me to find something stiffer but it will still ultimately wind up being a weight lighter and an extra foot longer LOL. I know my way around a rod of any kind and I've fought many large fish in my angling career so far. I've landed everything from 11 pound Steelhead and Browns to 25 pound Lakers, 14 pound Drum, 21 pound Channel Cats. Not trying to boast, I'm just saying I know very well how to fight fish among all species, but I know that my 8wt is far softer than it should be for steelhead fishing.

genieman77
Oakie doakie...sounds like you need to buy a new rod(and quit fouling fish in the ManHole) now your search is at the stores and shops to "feel" the rod in your hand   .L.T.A.

Yup, need a trip to field and stream or the Orvis store here this weekend to test some new rods out. And I think a 5% foul rate is pretty good, genie. 50% of the chrome Cemetary fish are just psychos that like to practice their marathon running haha. How do I know? I never fish walnut when I can't at least see the sillhouette of the fish and flies. If they're fouling accidentally then they've got to be jumping in front of the fly seconds before they're hooked, which is certainly possible but sill unlikely. But it hardly matters since I rarely fish that circus anyway, chutes are more my cup of tea, better suited to nymphing and it's much easier to control fish in there.