Helpful ReplyNew to fly fishing for steel 
bbrown
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New to fly fishing for steel
As the title of the thread reads its for anyone new to fly fishing for steel as like myself. just looking to get any pointers at all. Anything from what is a good rod an reel to use to what line works best in what conditions.
post edited by bbrown - 2013/08/31 16:15:55
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bigfoot
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Re:New to fly fishing for steel
2013/08/31 16:09:01
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Here's my advice. There fish. Keep it simple. Don't go out and spend a lot of money on equipment that you probably won't even need. Been there, done that. Research past threads. Tons of info in regard to just about any specific questions you may have. Good luck. If you are looking for a great fly fishing set up that I bought to fish for steelhead, PM me. I'll make you a great deal.
How did the person who invented the first clock know what time it was?
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bbrown
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Re:New to fly fishing for steel
2013/08/31 21:55:10
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thnnk ya much for the feed back.
What is a good line weight to go with on the tribs. I seen most everyone goes with floating line and for good reason.
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shmoe
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Re:New to fly fishing for steel
2013/09/09 10:05:59
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Well ive been preparing for my first erie trib season on the fly rod.. Ive gone down to the beaver river and using bread have caught a few carp just to feel what it would be like to fight a big fish..
But to my dismay i havnt been able to hook a fish with a actual fly.. Ive tried minnow patterns, buggers, and nothing.. Im wondering if i need more weight. Im hittin the bottom in slower retrieves. maybe im just havin bad luck. Ive caught so many smallies on many different lures but i cant understand why im not gettin any bites with a fly
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Whitebeard
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Re:New to fly fishing for steel
2013/09/09 23:09:31
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You've gotten some great responses already, but there's several more suggestions that can make the difference between "just fishing" and successfully hooking fish on the fly rod. Most important is finding the right depth and getting a drag free, natural, dead drift. Of course, I'm referring to fishing nymphs, artificial eggs, and the like. Many flyfishers choose to use lightweight floats. Under the right conditions, they may work fine. But there's another time-tested method: Try tying in a permanent indicator, ON your leader near the connection to your fly line, that's easy to follow on the drift. Use a LONG rod and keep your casts as short as possible, often having as little as a yard of fly line below the tip top. Make your casts quartering upstream, mend your line/leader, and follow the drift with your rod tip directly over or just behind the fly. Make minor adjustments for depth by raising or lowering your rod tip and be sure to have just the right amount of split shot 8" - 12" above your offering. Concentrate on your indicator and set the hook when it stops or moves erratically. Learn to read the water for promising holding and feeding locations. That's where you'll find the fish. Good luck!!
post edited by Whitebeard - 2013/09/09 23:24:43
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shmoe
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Re:New to fly fishing for steel
2013/09/10 16:29:00
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^great stuff! thanks, Ill put that to practice...
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Cold
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Re:New to fly fishing for steel
2013/09/10 17:25:35
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☄ Helpfulby FiveMilePete 2013/09/19 21:13:10
As an addition to what others have said, both in agreement/extension, and as an alternative: 80-90% of my steelhead fly fishing is done with 0-2 feet of fly line on the surface of the water, and of that, 75% is 0 feet. I use the butt and mid of a normal knotless tapered leader, with a perfection loop tied on both ends, and then 2-3 feet of tippet loop-to-looped on the end.
Terminal tackle varies by flow, depth, and clarity, but I only ever use any sort of indicator when I actually will use it. That means when I can't see the fish/my fly/my leader & tippet below the surface. Even in those conditions, I'll only add the indicator if I feel I'm not going to be able to notice anything but the most aggressive takes. Again, for 80-90% of my fishing, it's no-indicator.
These two things in mind, you can get the picture that the vast majority of my fishing is within 1-2 rod lengths of my position, and my presentation is usually between vertical and 45 degrees to the water surface. This means that in most drifts, I can maintain constant near-contact with my terminal tackle (avoiding both slack and direct tension, which will kill any possibility of a good drift and put you mostly out of the game). It allows me to quickly adjust my drift on the fly, feel ticks on the bottom, and let me know instantly if the line stops (whether in the mouth of a fish or, more likely, in a crevice in the shale).
Fishing this close in, there's no need for casting, and at the end of a drift, one can easily just flip the line back upstream for another go of it. This is really the main reason I like the fly rod up there; just that little bit of line out past the tip of my rod (1-10 feet) is enough mass to turn over the rest, and that gives me the exact same distance of my "cast" every time, or allows me to make a fine adjustment (sometimes the difference between "not a glance" and "fish on" is a matter of an inch) to get my fly just on the edge of a seam, or even something more tricky, like having the current pull my fly under an overhang while leaving my lead bouncing out of sight over the top of the ledge.
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