Beginner: Different technique for slow rod?

Hello. I'll give you some background first and then questions itemized below.

I am a fly tier. I currently fish on ultralight spinning gear because I primarily fish when I'm camping (so can't afford the weight/bulk of 2 fishing rigs on the portages) and I spend about 80% of the time trolling from a canoe and 19% casting in small creeks, almost exclusively for brook and lake trout. When I realized that you could effectively troll with fly gear I decided to streamline my hobbies and am breaking into fly-fishing.

As I expect my small creek fishing % to increase since fly fishing is more efficient for these places and since the rod type for trolling will not be as critical, I got myself a 7 1/2 ft 4wt fiberglass (for durability - I'll be camping/bush-wacking headwaters) slow action rod, a matching DT line and a short, relatively heavy leader (started off as a 9ft 6x but with wind knots and breakoffs...) and I've been trying to teach myself to cast with books and youtube videos.

At the shorter lengths my casting seems to be okay but in desperate need of practice. Once I try to extend it, though, my line loses momentum and starts to fall to the ground before loading the rod for the back/forecast. I've measured this distance four times and it's been almost exactly 4 rod lengths (30ft if its nominal length is accurate) + leader length. I know that slow rods don't cast as far and have heard in general that DT lines don't cast as far (but others have said they'll cast as far just don't shoot as well) so I am wondering if (QUESTION #1) is 30ft + leader as much as I can reasonably expect from my rod? From what I read most of my cast will likely be within these limits, but I'd like to learn the basics as well as I can.

When I do try and muscle the line out further, a couple of things start to happen. One, my line hits my rod/the other part of the loop on the forecast which to me suggests that either I am going past the 10 o'clock position (I'm left-handed - do right-handers think of their back cast as the 2 o'clock?) in order to lengthen the power stroke or the line does start to fall before I start my forecast. I have tried to throw the line higher behind me (stopping closer to 11 o'clock) but that seems to slow the line even more and I end up whip-cracking behind me (from what I've read this means I am starting the forecast to early) or end up with the line falling to the ground behind me without ever straightening out completely so this is not a good solution. (QUESTION #2) does my reasoning above seem to make sense or am I missing something that might help if I understood better.

The other way I can extend my line another 3 or 4 strips (about 6 ft) is to break the rule that every source I have read/watched says is written in stone - thou shalt no bend thy wrist. The funny thing is that this seems successful and also feels more natural (more fluid and less rigid). My loops are a bit looser (about 3ft) but still defined and not an arc. I don't really consider what I do "breaking" my wrist. I'd describe it more as letting my wrist lag behind my arm during the first part of the cast and then towards the end of the cast snapping my wrist to the position that it would have been in had I never let it move in the first place. The starting and ending points remain 10 and 2 o'clock. I look at it as letting the rod preload during the first part of the cast and then applying the maximum speed to the line towards the end. (QUESTION #3) Does the "wrist commandment" apply to a very slow rod or is it more specific to the fast rods that almost everyone uses today? i.e. Does casting a slow rod need a slightly different casting technique?

I think I'll keep it to that as this has gotten pretty long. Thank you in advance for your replies, but in the interests of keeping this thread on topic, please refrain from posting that I should just get another rod or purchase casting lessons. I can appreciate those viewpoints but am choosing to learn to use my current rod as best I can (I built it myself and am a little attached to it)

as D-nymph said, timing is the most important factor first off.
slow rods aren't very good with long casts. the longer the fiberglass rod the easier it will be to make longer casts.
when it comes to slow fiberglass rods and long casts i find speed is very important. IMO. if your back cast is too slow the fly/line will start to drop more while waiting for the rod to completely load. with the line dropping this will mess up the loop behind you.
with a quicker back cast you'll develop more speed, and therefore should be able to start your foerward cast sooner without as much line droop.  
try angling your arm some instead of right over your shoulder.  
as far as the wrist thing. i use my wrist more on a forward cast at the end for shooting line. also for more distance i'll also extend my arm and shoulder sometimes on the forward cast, almost as if pointing to where i want the fly to go. just remember a little wrist movement at the grip makes a wider rod tip movement, so just a little is enough sometimes.
there are basic steps to get one started in casting a fly rod. as far as i'm concerned if i can get my fly where i want it consistantly and without problems or fatigue, i don't care what i look like getting it there and i haven't found anyone yet to question my ability.
 
i fish fiberglass quite often. all my fiberglass rods have different actions and i found when i adjust my stroke with more speed it works better fo me.
 
graphite rods are completely different.

^Agreed.  On most PA trout waters, if you are casting 35+ feet -- leader + flyline -- you are standing in the wrong place.

ORIGINAL: D-nymph

Slow waaaaay down in your casts, you're moving forward too fast before the line has time to unroll behind you. It has everything to do with timing and nothign to do with power or muscle.

True.

I wish I could learn to double haul.

Andra2000,

To answer your questions about wrist movement...
It's ok to put some wrist movement into the cast. In fact, it's important to include some wrist movement. The answer to how much is, very very little. When you apply the wrist movement, you are adding gradual power, and gradual speed to the rod tip. "Gradual" is the key word here. If you put the power and speed into the cast all at once, you overpower your rod, and add a tailing loop.

http://winstonrods.com/category/resources/casting-clinic.php

The page from this link contains some links to what I consider the best literature you can read on the topic. Joan covers wrist movement very well. Follow the principles in the clinic and you'll cast any rod well.

The principles that apply to being a good caster are the same no matter what rod or line you are throwing.

Also, be carefull about getting casting advice on a forum. You'll end up with advice from guys who are no better than you are at this point.

ORIGINAL: DarDys

I wish I could learn to double haul.

 
And you are fishing Tarpon at what distance?