Need some advice....

I spent way over $10,000 trying to find the right prop for my Checkmate and ended up using a 27p lab cut 4 blade Mach Patriot prop  that cost around $1500.
That prop was great for high speed but lacked low end power so I only used it if I wanted to run over 80mph
My boat did not come with the original prop and the engine was heavily modified,

Even with all the added power the original stainless 3 blade 25p prop worked best all around-Don't remember if it was a Bravo or Turbo
Find out what the original prop was and try that.

Every different prop changes the handling not just wide open rpm and planing.
Diameter also makes a big difference and changes rpm
A larger diameter, lower pitch is more efficient.
1" pitch in theory changes rpm by 200
A stainless prop will also spin faster.

 more info
http://www.overtons.com/props/propeller_info.shtml


One  of the props I bought was larger with a lot of surface and made the boat a nightmare to drive.
I would buy a new prop, not like it and sell it on ebay to get back most of my money.

Check to make sure the antivent plate is parrallel with the bottom of your boat when your trim gauage needle says it is level. You could be way off on that mark and cause poor planning. On plane you want the antivent plate to be level for max preforance.

Also to help get on plane, trim down the outdrive to help lift the rear of the boat out of the hole, and once moving start to trim to level. You got a heavy boat it might need that help.

What condition is the prop you have it now?

Like Pgh said use your trim tabs they will help you out alot.

For a prop, i would suggest a Solas Amita 4 17 pitch. I have had very good luck with solas props. I have found them to not be the fastest or the crispest handling, but they do very well in all catagorys. I would take a good all around prop anyday over a fussy one area wonder anyday.

My experence with the Amita 4 props is they tend to stay the same rpm as there 3 blade counter part. The normal rule of thumb would be adding another blade you would subtract 200rpm. I have never experenced that with the amita 4.

What i have seen is the general rule of thumb is for every inch of pitch should be about 200rpm. So you will be going down 2" of pitch and your motor should rev 400rpm higher. By the book, but real world you will have to try it to see what it does. But generally it is close, there is always a mystery when switching brands of props...some mfgs rate there props a little differently when it comes from actual pitch to the theroritical pitch that has the slip already calulated in.....

But the fourth blade on the solas prop in 17 pitch should be right near the same rpm as a solas 17 pitch three blade. That is from what i have seen in person and what others on another forum have seen as well, this isnt in stone. With props no one can say exactly what it will do for your motor unless you go from the same brand and model and only change pitch.

I really like four blade props, the forth blade will give you more bite on take off with the extra surface area, and hold you on plane at a lower speed. Sometimes it is a huge difference that speed sometimes it is not so different. But i like how they handle better, you will generally have less venting in hard corners.

I am sure you have realized by now changing props isnt as black and white as it sounds. Alot of things go on with props. We have not hit the areas of rake, cupping, venting, propper slippage.... it can drive you crazy. I have been there, it isnt fun

ORIGINAL: pghmarty

The same size stainless will spin faster than aluminum.

With SS you want to drop 1" of pitch to compensate for how rigid the ss is as compaired to aluminum. So SS would not spin faster when compaired to aluminum, it would spin slower with the same pitch.

SS is much more efficient, you will have less slip normally =ing better MPG. However 300$ + is a tough pill to swallow if you get it incorrect when an aluminum prop is about 110$

The amita 4 is a four blade prop, a very good all around preformer. I will agree SS will do better but i will go back to the cost as the equallizer that could erase the advantage of SS

thanks to the both of you, I understand both points of view.  I am leaning into the solaras aluminum prop to get on the lake. Right now I would not dare go out on erie the way it is now. My inexperience coupled with a lazy boat could be a disaster....I have  about a grand more in it than I wanted to already. All out performance is not my goal, just the ability to plane in about half the time would be nice. Right now I feel if I was caught out in rough water it would not be able to plane or have enough in reserve, maybe I am a control freak 

I have the tabs all the way down to plane, just not enough. It does have flotation foam it does not appear water logged, should I cut into it to check it? One thing worth noting the cuddy had a small sink,cooler alcohol stove combo about 60lbs, I removed it for space and added the kicker motor on the back probably 100 lbs. that probably moved the center of gravity to the rear a bit.

Just out of curiosity, have you ever thought about having the boat and trailer weighed?
Just to see what you really do have as a total weight, then subtract about 1000# for a dual axle trailer.
 
I was amazed when I had our Mako weighed...boat and trailer was 6000#.
Factory spec. for our boat was 2100# (dry hull from factory without motor and fittings).
6000 minus 2100 minus 1000 for trailer = 2900# for motor, hardware, 1/2 tank of fuel...the weight adds up without realizing it!
 
As a side note, I think that boat should plane out without needing very much down-angle on your tabs.
The porpoising kind of sounds like a weight distribution issue, can you move anything forward to shift the center of gravity a bit?

Lots of good points made so far. Prop experimentation can be expensive, as Marty said he spent $10K going through props (he is a bit extreme though, no offense Marty )

Check the engine out, check compression and do a tune up. You have a heavy boat, it's not going to jump up on plane I don't care what you do. You can fine tune it to get out of the hole better and sacrifice top end speed. I've seen guys prop their boats to get out of the hole and then have to be careful on the top end because they would over rev. The number of days that you can run 25 mph on Erie are limited anyway, unless you like beating the crap out of yourself and your boat. I purposely bring my boat to plane slowly, but I treat all my equipment gently because I'd rather be enjoying it than fixing it. Mako makes a good point, I backed my boat into the scales at our local feed mill and had similar results. 100 gallons of fuel, motor, kicker motor and all the gear adds up fast and if you don't distribute that weight correctly you'll have problems.

Lots of good points made so far. Prop experimentation can be expensive, as Marty said he spent $10K going through props (he is a bit extreme though, no offense Marty )

I was able to sell them on ebay and probably only lost a fraction of that + the almost $2K I had in the 2 props I kept for my boat.
Most of the props I tried were in the $400 - $1200 each range.
Prop cost around $1500 that increased speed on GPS from 77 to 83 MPH.
Yes-I had more money than brains at the time
Props get very expensive when they are lab cupped and blades shaved.

I still think using the original from the factory type of prop and a tune-up is the best idea.
Having someone that knows what they are doing adjust the limit switches and gauge on drive may also help.
Weighing the boat may also be a good idea if you can estimate all of the extra weight.
I weighed a few boats when I worked at a scrap yard and never charged anyone.
Be sure to unhitch if you do.

Thanks all I am rechecking the timing and advance tomorrow before work. I did some work on supports under the self bailing cockpit, to make a long story short I thought I cleaned up properly, I didn't it sucked some debris that built up on the backfire preventer I think it was not moving enough air. I cleaned it and hope that was the problem.I plan to test it Saturday I will report back.

jhawk... anchoring can sometimes be an exercise in frustration!! I don't know what type you are using. We have our best luck (on Erie) with a 'danforth' anchor attached to a 6 ft piece of heavy chain and then your rope.
Figure out where you want to be, come to a full stop long enough to figure out wind direction, then point your bow directly into the wind and move forward slowly about twice the distance as it is deep. Drop your anchor and begin backing up slowly, when your anchor is on bottom move backwards very slowly till you feel it catch, then continue back drawing out line till you have about 3x the depth out in anchor line. Then tie off at bow. You will swing side to side, may drag a small amount and may break loose no matter what in heavy seas or if you get waked by other boats but this should get you started.
It takes a while to get used to how your boat handles in different wind and wave conditions, and as you repeat the process you will begin to establish your own routine and tweak it based on your own boat. Good luck

What size Danforth anchor do you use?

The danforth anchors don't have to weigh a lot to work well, when you look at them they will have recommended boat size. For your boat I would say either the 8 or the 13 pound danforth would be fine. I have a "Digger" anchor that doesn't need chain and holds very well, but they are expensive and let's just say the "releasing flukes" don't exactly work with 150' of 1/2" rope out. Don't recommend the digger, I would stay with the danforth. Remember, when you get an anchor that will hold a larger boat they can sometimes be a bit of a bear to get them to release. If you don't have a windlass use the cleat to hold the line as you let the waves take care of the heavy pulling, if not wear gloves or prepare for rope burn...