Drilling holes in a boat🤔 now that would fun if I was workin on sumbudy elses boat..... bore a hole bore a hole don't know where...🙈


Not to worry about those boat registrations.... although Tom the Mighty Gov of PA did reopen vehicle sumpthin or other on a limited bases.

So go get them wally's and don't forget the pictures.

I reran plumbing when I redid my floors a few years back. Not fun at all. The tight spaces from the stringers and having to line up.

My part came in. Not as advertised by YouTube jerk... Spent 3 hours trying a few different things. Can’t figure it out. Old board is definitely busted, or at least my voltage tester seems to confirm... The new board just doesn’t operate the same way. It shows voltage after the relay, which the old one doesn’t, but for some reason doesn’t turn the motor? I tore apart the bottom unit again to be sure that it was good. Ran the volt meter, good. Ran the motor straight to the battery and ran great. Thinking to just get a switch and manual knob and make it a tiller! Although I am sure not that easy. I’m sure a few more hours the next few days.

Pork, the new relay that shows voltage, can you tell, is it feeding the same lead as the the original relay?


Danggg, in other news, it's raining like the preverbial cow and flat rock and looks like it will last the night through.☔

The new board relay is showing voltage.  But if I keep the pedal switched to "on" and keep the meter on, the voltage slowly slips.  When I have it attached to my motor, it gives a slight movement of the prop, but then nothing.  Which is more than my old board did, just giving a click.  So, I am assuming from that, my pedal switch is working (turning it on and off), just wrong control board.  So, I guess not as universal as the guys on the internet are suggesting!
 
The new board has fewer wires too, which I am pretty sure is just not set up for the auto pilot, which I don't use.  There are wires for the steering, but only goes one way...
 
Pretty sure just $120 down the drain.  But will tinker with it a bit more before I completely concede on that.  
 
I tried some other "hack" that supposedly has the motor to run at full RPM, by combining the negative leads, but didn't do squat.  Which honestly, I have no idea how it would work, if my relay isn't switching from off to on.  I haven't tried with the new board.  Might be next on my tinkering.
 
Another Youtube temptress idea is to make a switch box using a 40A DC speed controller with on and off switch...  Not sure if I am game to waste another $50...
 
 

Hang in there Pork.  The voltage drop may be  created by the old MinnKota Maximizer Control.  It was an option available on select models and there was an add on control (still available on ebay).
 
The system used pulsating current to operate the motor at various speeds which in turn gave a battery longer life unlike the original motors which used "speed coils".
 
I'm thinking your new relay is fed through a system similar to the Maximizer which controls the power, in turn controlling motor starting speed,  so idiots like me who leave the motor on full speed, doesn't throw his asz off the boat when tripping on the pedal.
 
 

Sorry... lost my internet.

Here is a link to info that explains the Maximizer.

Not sure about the speed control your motor uses but I'm hoping the article will shed some light and maybe open up a new door in helping getting your problem fixed.

https://pumpupboats.com/m..kota-digital-maximizer/

Well, wouldn't you know...  After another round of 2 hours of F-ing around with this motor, one of the first things that I thought to do, ended up being the answer.  Or at least for now.
 
I tore the dang thing apart again and cleaned every single connection with some electronics spray, scrubbed with my airbrush cleaning brushes and even sanded down some connections that had some darker marks on them.  The same D @ M N result. 
 
Click...
 
I think most of you that have followed this, have an idea of what my first thoughts were.  
 
Stop.
 
 
 
Hammer time!!!!
 
 
 
No Chit.  Trust me, it took me a lot of restraint to not "Turn this Mutha out"!!!  But I found it in myself to give it 3 "measured whacks" (prior to beers)...  "Mutha out" was definitely "plan B" or more like A.1...  A little upset that didn't get to smash the heeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllllll out of that thing.  The hammer thing was something that I considered after 20 seconds of analyzing the situation when it first came about (has extended starters on my old truck and lawn tractors).  I "convinced myself" I didn't think doing on an electronics board would do the same...  At the current time, I am guessing this "fix" will be rather short lived, but am living the high right now!!!  

Porktown, these are things that can happen to electronics. Lack of use, (particularly on something that operates in water or in a moisture rich environement), causes corrosionl. That's why I had suggested the judicious use of the digital volt ohm meter, and a strong load testing device. What I mean is that a volt meter can show correct voltage when only a couple of strands of wire are carrying the load, but the wire cannot conduct sufficient current to make a unit run. I remember more'n 20 years ago, I'd get a call at home from somebody, (usually after they buried their 4WD Ford Explorer with electric shift transfer case and found that it would not go into 4WD). Takes two people to fix it. One to sit in the vehicle and constantly rotate the switch, and one under the vehicle with a hammer to beat hell out of the shift motor 'til she goes. Once you'd get it to shift, you engage it a dozen times or so, and you're good for another year. They are simply electric motors with brushes and an armature. Brushes would literally be galded to the armature. I've had a few vehicles over the years that were towed in, no crank, no start, and I'd find that the communication Bus was down. Disconnect the battery, reconnect, and vehicle would start. Give the Powertrain Control Module a sharp rap with my pocket knife or a screw driver handle, and the engine would die like you shut the key off. Could do it consistantly several times. Time for a new PCM. And those things are very robust! Consider the millions of Mopar Minivans on the road. Know where the PCM is? In front of the left front wheel just behind the front bumper fascia. I've seen them corroded white from weather and road salt and they still worked. Matter of fact, the tranny controller was right beside them and I found one that had a hole eaten clear through it and it worked.
 
Once you get that trolling motor goin' good, put it through the paces in both directions at all speeds, just to get everything in there acclimated again. I would heartily suggest the use of di-electric grease on any wiring connection, be it a screw hold a power or ground, or a spade terminal plug in. Glad ya got it goin' again.

I'LL BE DARNED.... Pork your experience brings true meaning to "When all else fails, get the BFH!" only second to "OTFT"


👍Congratulations neighbor now get out there and get them fishes. Times a wasting.🍻

Lol Pork.....you're "turn this motha out" comment almost made me choke on my dinner tonight! Been to that point many times with a hammer in hand, and made it happen a few. Glad the troller is up and working for you at the moment. 👍