To not take over the Arthur thread with too much motor talk. Mine is an ancient Minn Kota Turbo Pro 812 that came with my boat (broken and had fixed). Was the control board then too, which I had professionally fixed. Being that it is a long shaft and would need long shaft since my bow sits rather high, I am finding the cheapest replacements are $600+. With things not being the most certain right now, I am not looking to make that sort of investment on my boat that gets used maybe 20 days per year. I have been doing a bunch of tinkering and internet searching. It appears that Minn Kota went from V1 to V2 foot pedals. Using the same control boards just changing the connectors... According to enough on the internets to believe, enough to give a shot. There is also a hack to have it run, but not able to vary the speed. I like to be able to change the speeds and willing to spend a bit to fix. So, going to give the V2 conversation a try. If it doesn’t work, then out $120 and will roll with the all one speed. Hopefully my luck with this boat keeps up. It has been a tank that seems to have been built well enough for me at least.

I did a bunch of voyage and Ohm tests as well as ran the motor itself direct to the battery, bypassing the control board and works. And have seen many others describe the same issue with a clicking sound at the board, so am pretty sure it is the control board. I think the pedal itself works (thank you Gizmo for the offer). I might track you down if this doesn’t work!

Pork that is interesting.  I called Minn Kota regarding replacement parts for my motor and they told me replacement pedals for my motor are no longer available.
 
Makes me a bit upset as the first problem occurring with my motor was slow turning to the left. Then, replacement pedals were available for less than a $100.00 but Smart asz me thinking I would pull a fast one, had to tear the pedal down, where I found corrosion on the snap switch.
 
Last time I had the boat in the water (over a year ago) I had the same problem of the clicking but no go.   However, a few choice words and some temper tantrum dancing upon the pedal brought about a miracle  and no further problem.  My motor has the feature where the speed increases gradually which is great as it prevents me from being thrown, off the bow of the boat, in the event the speed selector is full up and the motor is at a right angle to the boat.  I mean who thinks to first check the condition of the trolling motor when a guy must suddenly stomp the control pedal moving his boat  to retrieve a lure from a new found snag.  Anyways, I'm suspecting the no go may be associated with the speed control located inside the pedal somewhere.
 
This season awaits replacement of a battery before I hit the water, so I'm not knowing what to expect.
 
I'll likely hook the motor to my battery charger, switch to "Start" position and stomp on the motor pedal before spending money on a battery.   Not likely to be replacing the trolling motor if the pedal fails this year. 
 
I sure hope you are successful getting your problem fixed.  I'll be waiting to hear.

Porktown, I don't know squat about trolling motors, but if I may, I would apply a little automotive engineering to the problem. Vehicles either use relays or drivers to distribute electrical power to various loads, and your motor has similarities. Drivers are transistorized; high side drivers supply current, low side drivers provide ground. A relay normally has two powers and a ground, and the output to the load. When you hear clicking, you may be hearing the relay pulling down as it's supposed to, but it's possible the problem is on the output side of the relay. One post of a relay would be B+(12V or 24V), (Heavy wire),one post would be B+ from a switch or other source, (smaller wire), the other post would be the ground, (small wire), and the 4th post is the output, (heavy wire). When B+ comes from the switch, (ie: foot pedal) or ground comes from the switch, however the pedal is wired, the power is pulled low to ground and the coil closes, allowing the high current to flow through the relay to the load. Speeds from the foot pedal would be from a rheostat, (or a resistive multiplex unit; we call it MUX), and would vary the amount of the ground to the motor through the resistor. Find what's clicking when you hit the trigger, then with DVOM check for output voltage on that unit. If you have voltage, then use something like an old headlight, (something that will pull some amps to test the wire) and see if it lights brightly. If it lights but is dim, you're looking for high resistance in that circuit, ie: corrosion or weak wire, bad solder joint, or possibly a burnt trace on the board. Good luck!

Thank you guys for the info.
 
Going to take apart the pedal and see if there are some corroded leads.  Something in my skill level.
 
Understanding EMitch's message is above my skill level!  Ha, ha.  I think I am following though at least somewhat (after reading 3 times).  Neat to hear how the pedal's electronics work.  It sounds like there is a relay inside of the control board, that is pulling power and not giving to the output side (or possibly one of the B+ side items).  On the DVOM, it is giving nothing on the output side.  There are actually 16 other wires coming off of the board, so assume a few are considered B+.  7 to the foot pedal that are encapsulated in the board, by some sort of plastic resin, so unable to test those at the board.  I assume each could be tested at the pedal.  I will try that when I take apart the pedal this evening.  As noted about the board being encapsulated, if one of switches, MUX or one of the other smaller transistors or whatever they are on there is bad, it would be a chore to dig it off.  I'm guessing possible, but would be a job for someone that really knows electronics and sure about pin pointing the issue.
 
Hopefully loose connection in the pedal!  If it is something inside of the board, I am fine spending the $120 to replace.  From what I have read, Minn Kota motors are known to blow these boards.  If I can get another 13 years out of it for $120, that is a win by me.  If inside the pedal and free, even better!!! 
 

Welp, I hooked the red lead from the battery charger to the red lead of the trolling motor and then the black lead to the black lead. Plugged in the battery charger and hit the trolling motor control pedal. NOTHING😩 not a ssst or poof, pop, zzzzt, "nothing" not even a 💥ka-blewie.🤧

So, upon taking control of a hissy fit, I began trial and error diagnostics🤔 where eventually I found the problem due to a loose connection. Luckily it took less then a minute to insert the motor connector plug, into the receptacle located on the bow, and give it a quarter turn.

A quick press of the motor control pedal and I'm sooooo happy... I stayed clear of the motor prop.🤗

😠 Ssssnot funny, that coulda hurt!!!


Now it's off somewhere to buy a marine battery cause the weather this week looks to be stellar.

C'mon, Porktown, we're waitin' on the report. Is it gonna live, or are ya gonna put a board on it? Inquirin'' minds wanta know!

EMitch
C'mon, Porktown, we're waitin' on the report. Is it gonna live, or are ya gonna put a board on it? Enquiring minds wanta know!

 
 

There, fixed it for ya.
 

Tore apart the pedal and everything looked to be in place connection wise. Of course it could end up being the board in the pedal itself... Put my order in for the control board and supposed to be here in a few days. Will post an update when it comes in, modify and install.

Hey, Einstein! I was just askin' a question, you know, as in making an inquiry. Did the meaning go right over your head? I didn't know I'd run into a grammar Nazi on a fishin' forum.
 
I was just interested in knowin' if Pork found a loose connection or a big corroded green wire. Some fixes can be a surprise.
 
Porktown, sounds like your luck is like mine. Murphy's Law as it applies to EMitch. Double Murphy!

I hope not double. I hear you though. I will be very thankful if the new board works! My gas motor problem last year couldn’t have been more frustrating. Tore the carb apart 3-4 times, replaced every fitting and find out I had bad oil... Hoping not a repeat. The trolling motor is more of a luxury. I have a smaller one that I can use from my 12’ tin can. It’s under powered and not as much control, but works. Would like this for walleye season opening. So I can troll and not catch anything for a few hours before going panfishing... Speaking of frustrating!