Hi Guys,
Im new to the forum here.  Looking for some info on what kind of setups i need for trolling for Walleye on Pymatuning. 
 
Im specifically inquiring about what line to use and how to rig it to crankbaits (hot n' tots) From what i gathered most people are using either fireline or some other brand of braid.  
My questions are:
1.what # test is recommended
2.do i just tie the lure straight to the braid? with no in line weights or snubbers
 
i primarily will be trolling either by the spillway in Linesville or down by the dam in Jamestown. 
Any help is greatly appreciated. THANKS GUYS!

Let me take a stab at this one guys.
 
I'd recommend reading up on fishing the thermocline.  It's the next period to hit.  Fireline will achieve on average +10% to your dive chart (do you have one of these?).  You should run some kind of leader either mono or fluorocarbon.  5-10' will do.  A line counter reel is always a wise investment.  With a dive chart, linecounter reel, and fish finder your atleast in the ballgame.   

thanks slab, im not sure what you mean by thermocline? but anyway, no i dont have a dive chart...i need to find the trolling bible everyone speaks of....apparently you cant buy a hard copy anymore according to their website.  I do have line counter reels already, but i really just need some info on the type of line. i was thinking of running 20# power pro braid.. is that ok to use? i hate using leader also because its easy for a bloodknot or uni knot to slip with a flouro/braid combo.
once again, thanks alot for the info!

I use a uni to uni knot, never had a problem connecting mono to braid.
 
Thermocline - three layers of water when the water temperature reaches above air temperature.  top layer, thermocline, bottom layer. The walleye will suspend along with other fish...It could happen in ten, twelve FOW...Do yourself a favor and read up on it.  You will have a better understanding on why you are marking soo many fish between 9-15 feet and not seeing much below or above these depths.  
 
Now there is one exception fish can live in the top layer, ie...weedbeds will produce oxygen so baitfish will always be present.  Walleye will be buried deep with a full sun.
 
I can go on forever, just wish pymatuning was alittle closer.

BCFC,
Another way to connect your leader would be one of the spro micro swivels.  You can make your leader short so you can still cast or make it long if you are just trolling and the small spro swivels can be wound up easily through the guides for storage.  I wouldn't wind it up under pressure with a fish or anything or risk damaging a guide.  
 
You will also eliminate line twist if one of your lures is acting up and it acts kind of like a speed bead and will keep small floating weeds from getting all the way down to the lure and fouling the lure.

20# Powerpro will work just fine.
 
I use a surgeon's knot with three passes through instead of two.  Easy to tie and works just fine for me.  Wet it and check it.
 
If you adjust the sensativity on your depth finder, you will pick up the thermocline.  Like Slab said, you won't see many fish below it.
 
 

If you pick up a book, or download the precision trolling app you will want to make sure the data it gives you is relevant -
 
If you want to successfully use that linecounter in line with the precision trolling data, then you must calibrate the reel.  Follow this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNHHef2oIEo
 
Also PT data uses standard 10# trilene XT.  So a thinner line will get you a little deeper, thicker line not so deep.  Braid will get you deeper than those numbers since it is thinner and cuts the water better.  I run all my cranks on mono(I use 16# Sunline - It is 16# but has the diamater of 10# so the dive curve will follow the PT books/app)
 
The advantage to braid for trolling is that it is a lot more sensitive and you will see your rod tip shake from the crankbait, you will be able to tell if you picked up some weeds or trash if it stops.

Thanks for the help guys, I haven't been on the forum for a while and just saw your responses.

If you do the swivel approach, I have just read in the past week, the ball bearing swivels are the way to go.  The forum I was reading, some salt water forum, showed a bunch of graphics and links to support the claim of how they are better.  Enough for me to pick up a few 50% off...  Supposedly run a lot more true, for getting the twist out of the line, which at times will have your offering twisting in circles when it shouldn't be.  If just using for a connection, then I guess not worth the extra cost.  They are a bit larger too.  Others that troll more, and have more experience with them, might have more input if worth it.
 
Do some searches on here and the internets in general on lead core line.  If you are fishing Pymie, that seems to be what many use there.  You'll need a dedicated rod or two for it.  I just set mine up, so a rookie with using it.  But, from the sounds of it, the most consistent way of getting your offering deep on inland lakes.

Simple, it works. Caught hundreds of eyes doing this 20 lb mono,quality sampo snap,hot an tot approximately 20 feet behind the boat. Don't be afraid to play with colors,some days it mean the world of difference. Long speed is another factor, hang the tot over the side and get the right wiggly or shake.