Rod talk

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indsguiz
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2008/02/13 00:14:44 (permalink)

Rod talk

Gentlemen,
    I have been a fly fisherman for about 45 years now and I am interested in hearing others opinions about differing fly rods.  I have fished everything from classic bamboo thru new bamboo thru fiberglass and now into the graphites.  But I really can't understand the passion that some people attach to certain types of rods.  In my experience the rod is only as good as the user, with the only difference being the weight of line that they throw.  Why is everyone so rabid about certain rods?  I have owned way too many from Shakespeare to Sage and I prefer to buy my rods by the ounce.(ie cheaply)  I really want to hear opinions since I'm in a buying mood again.
 
  P.S.  A rod will have to be really superlative to get me to shell out big bucks.  The 6 wt Sage just didn't cut it for me, neither did a 5wt G.Loomis when compared to an old ugly stick.
post edited by indsguiz - 2008/02/13 00:16:51

Illegitimis Non carborundum
#1

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    D-nymph
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 09:10:35 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: indsguiz

    Gentlemen,
        Why is everyone so rabid about certain rods? 

     
    There are probably many, many reasons.  But in my opinion, the most common one is probably "I use rod X, therefore it's the best".
     
    Many bamboo enthusiasts (I wish I could afford one, I've never fished one) probably use them for the romantic notions of traditionalism.
    #2
    doubletaper
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 09:33:42 (permalink)
    my sas scott rod 2pc. 8 1/2 5wt.does everything i can want in a rod. maybe because i used it longer than any other when i reallystarted fly fishing more. i can roll cast with good distance, sidearm cast beneath overhangs and overhand cast with great ease. tires fish out quicker. casts wt. forward and dt. very nicely.
    i got a 4pce. 9' 5wt. for when i float tube or canoe from damon rod  comp. in new york. it is much softer than what i expected and doesn't roll cast or throw heavy buggers very well but big flies and streamers without the weight it casts them great with much distance.
    i got a 5pce. 4/5 wt. 8 1/2' from kettle creek fly shop. just got it last year and is a dream. still getting used to it but i think it will be my go-to-rod for fishing while cycling. it casts great with both 4wt and 5wt. doesn't roll casts buggers as well as my scott but casts superb overhand like my scott. it is also light in hand.
    small streams if i want graphite i'll use my lightest 4wt 4pce 7'1/2" powell rod. quick response. after  using this any rod after that is like a ton of lead.
    i love the feal of my little wonderrod fiberglass. there is no feeling like playing a trout on this rod. a completely different and satisfying rod.
    i hope my new diamondglass can perform and satisfy my urge when i want to fish a softer rod with the experience of fiberglass

    scott rod= use as a general rod for smallmouth and trout when i'm vanning
    damon rod= float tubing, canoeing, or wider streams  with a wt. forward line
    powell rod= an exploring rod in small streams when i know i'll be walking
    kettle creek rod= go-to rod when i'm on the cycle
    wonderrod.= something different in small streams mostly for brook trout.
    4pc cortland 5wt graphite (nothing fancy)=exploring new trout waters
    9'1/2" orvis 4pc.7wt.= steelhead and will be my largemouth float tube rod.
    if i could build rods and be able to test a lot of rods i'm sure i'de take the time to build one.
                                                                       ~jerry
    post edited by doubletaper - 2008/02/13 09:35:38

    http://streamsidetales.bl...015/05/helles-yea.html
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    #3
    Fisherboy86
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 11:54:47 (permalink)
    Rods are as good as their users.
     
    Any expert caster can make a horrible rod or line look great. But if they can make it work great, then why would it be considered horrible?  Vice versa. The Hardy Zane is an unbelievable rod, but I've only seen a handfull of people who can achieve it's full potential. So this would deem it as a horrible rod....for most people.
     
    Good all around rods that most people can cast decently would have a Moderate to Moderate Fast action with a good "feel" to it. If you can't feel it load, it will hold you, as a caster, back.
     
    St. Croix Avids, TFO's, Cortland Brook and Big Sky rods, and Hardy Marksman rods all work phenominal for the average guy.
     
    Brand and personal preference is what it really comes down to.
     
     
    Michael Foreman 
     
     
    #4
    RIZ
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 11:58:55 (permalink)
    i too look for value in a rod.  i bought a used scott SAS 9' 5 wt and really love it as and all around do everything trout rod.  i fish streamers as easily as size 20 midge.  i say id a med-fast action slightly leading to med.
     
    i also bought a stcroix avid used, a 6 1/2' 3 wt.  what a nice rod for small and medium streams.  this i would call a med action with a small lean to fast.
     
    also have 2  4pc., pro series TFO rods a 9' 5wt and a 8 1/2' 3 wt. these are very nice rods.  i bought them to travel with out west.  both are med-fast slightly leaning to fast.  i've been fishing the 3wt more often lately because it handle most of the type fishing i do here near PGH.
     
    i bought a 7 1/2' st croix pro graphite 5 wt.  i thought i would use it as an all around rod for small streams but have only have it out 2 times and not sure of it's nicht yet.  i would call this a med-slow action rod.
     
    my 1st graphite rod i have was a gift, made  on a lamiglass blank and is a med action, 8' 5 wt.  i guess i've used this rod the most, about 20 yrs, and lerned most of what i know about fly fishing.  nice rod but now prefer some others.  although i did pick it up last year to fish it when i broke the scott and TFO 3wt, and really found that it was like talking to an old friend.  so much history there and so much to catch up on.
     
    these are my trout rods and would recommend any of these for a tryout.  all these rods were under $150 and catch just as many fish as any $400 - $600 rod.  but then if is had that much money to throw are rods and not blink i would probably own some of them too.
    #5
    jlh42581
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 13:36:18 (permalink)
    I prefer my different rods for different situations, manuf really doesnt matter to me.

    I like my 7'11" superfine for streams like spring creek, it protects lite tippet and I love the slow action.

    For a stream like Penns I use my 8'6" cortland which is med action so I can punch those casts.

    For steelies I have a slow action cabelas traditional 9ft. I bought this because they dont make the superfine in the 8wt and I wanted to protect lite tippets again. After using this rod, I would buy another in a lighter weight rather then fork it out for the superfine. The only difference is the superfine is guarenteed for life.
    #6
    Loomis
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 14:11:51 (permalink)
     
     
    I currently have in my arsenal a 8'6"  5wt G-Loomis GLX.  I have no complaints.  The rod fishes great, the fast action allows for precise casting and fishing alot of weight/float, and has probably banked well over 500 fish for me since I got it two years ago.  I was given a rod that was broken, and G-loomis credited me with enough to try out somthing else.  I enjoy it alot and it is def. my go to rod for most medium trout streams. 
     
    When I got into fly fishing for steelhead I bought the Cabelas LST 9'6" 7wt.  I liked it alot when I used it, but it has since been replaced.  The fact it was fast action had its advantages and disadvantages when fishing for steelhead.  On the plus side, when the water was up and needed a ton of weight or I was fishing a streamer on a swing the stiff backbone allowed for a great uniform drift.  One gripe I had is it was a little to stiff for certain applications.  I was afraid to really put the bite down as hard with a light tippet because the balls this rod has. 
     
    It has since been replaced by a St. Croix wild river noodle/fly rod.  I used it for the first time on saturday and was thouroughly impressed, in fact I think so impressed im building another one soon.  It's a 10'6" spin blank with a really slow action, and the same thing that Nagy builds for his rod.  It casted great and since its sp springy loaded up for the lob cast that is so common when fishing for steelhead in Erie.  I had the ability to control the fish while not putting so much pressure on the tippet that I was worried of breaking off, atleast 30 fish on the bank and not one break off, I'd have to say im leaning toward being an advocate of the setup. 
     
    One gripe though, it is top heavy being that it's so slow.  I am looking on getting a harris solitude reel to balance this, they are a tank of a reel and have impeccable design. 
     
    I'd like to hear some input of what guys like on small native brookie streams as I am going to purchase a blank for my mountail adventures, the 7'6" wonder rod just isn't cuttin it anymore!!
    #7
    swinger
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 14:45:59 (permalink)
    Good luck on the Harris. Who knows when they will actually come out. Unless you got a lead on an older one from MI.
    #8
    indsguiz
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 15:18:03 (permalink)
    Loomis,
         For true brookie streams I like my antique bamboo rods or an old 7ft. Shakespeare wonderrod that I have.  I rig them all as 3 or 4wt and that's  how I fish them.  If the prospect of heavier stocked fish is there I will step up to a 5wt Ugly Stick or a 5 wt Wonderrod.  Just by example I learned a lesson a few years ago. I was fishing a Central PA stream that should have had , at most, 10-12" brookies in it.  I was using an 8ft. Antique Monteague rigged as a three wt.  but since I had been breaking off on limbs and sunken roots I stepped up my leader to about 5-6 wt.  When I accidently hooked in to a huge fish. . .  the line held but the rod didn't.  I went back to my car and came back with a 6wt Ugly Stick and caught a 19" brown out of the hole about an hour later. 
          I am in the process of building an set of NEW bamboo rods ranging from 3 wt to 6 wt. and hopefully they will be my general all around rods except for steel.  And I might even try one for steel.
         BTW anyone have an opinion on the 6pc 6wt Browning pack rods?

    Illegitimis Non carborundum
    #9
    flyfishindave
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 15:54:58 (permalink)
    I have to many rods but use most of them at different times
       1 g-loomis GLX 5 weight
       3 g-loomis IMX 4 & 5 & 6 weights 2 new style 3 piece rods & 1
    old style 2 piece
       3 dan craft ft series rods, a 2 & 4 & 8 weights
       1 winston 7 weight
    all of these rods are great & I built them all & for the money I think
    the dan craft rods are as good as they get for the money, in fact
    as soon as I go back to work I am going to build a new 3 weight to
    replace a broken one.
      I have other rods that just set in my tying room & never leave
    they just have there place in the corner of my rod cabinet, should
    get rid of them but they have been around to long, if you know
    what I mean.
    #10
    Pgh Kid
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 17:19:38 (permalink)
    I have enjoyed all of the different rods that I own. I have Sage, Loomis, Redington and a few Orvice. Each has their own place. This past fall I picked up a few bamboo rods at auctions and I am looking forward to using them this spring. I knew going into it that the bamboo rods are not the best. They were made in Korea during the war and a friend of the family brought them home with him.

    However I believe a rod should be fished and not hung on a wall.

    Has any but the very best fisherman ever gotten the most out of their rod - whatever brand? How many fisherman are good enought to push their rod.

    I have seen some fly fisherman with the best equipment known who I would just sit back and watch lmao. I saw a guy at Elk Creek with a fly rod/reel that I would have killwed to have, but he could do nothing with it.

    Keep what you have instead of buying new. You will enjoy it more each trip.
    #11
    dano
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 18:03:37 (permalink)
    I only have two rods that I would never part with. The first one, my #1 steelhead rod, does everything I need it to do. It's a light, accurate strong casting (med/fast) rod but surprisingly very forgiving at landing fish. I  have yet to find a rod that compares to it.
    The other one has sentimental value. It's probably caught more fish than all my rods combined. It's like an old friend.
    I have this other rod that also has sentimental value to me but I don't fish it much. It's an old classic and I treat it as such.  The only action it sees is on those lazy sunny afternoons. This one I would sell only because it would help finance a rod I would really like to have. It's another old classic that's a little to pricey for me at this time. An old rod built by Paul H Young.

    Gone Fishing
    #12
    Loomis
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 19:08:08 (permalink)
    Swinger.
     
    just some info, i can get em.  If ur interested let me know.
    #13
    casts_by_fly
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 20:20:05 (permalink)
    loomis,

    The 6'6" 2 wt Forecast 4 pc is tough to beat on a brookie stream. The Pac Bay 6'6" 2 wt is just as nice in feel but is only 2 pc. Both are super soft and cast a 4 wt line perfectly for short brookie casts. I think a 4 wt line is perfect for brookie streams because you sometimes want to toss a little bigger bugger or streamer. But you can't buy a 4 wt rod because only throwing 5' of line (if that) doesn't work and you have to over line it.

    The forecast might just be perfect as it breaks down into 17" sections.

    Thanks,
    Rick
    #14
    doubletaper
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/13 22:25:43 (permalink)
    question, i never had enough money to buy a bunch of different wt. and tapered lines to experiment with. my question is
    if you got a 2wt. rod why would you want to put a 4wt. line on it? why not get a 3wt or 4wt. rod? it's the line that hits the water so a bigger fly line a bigger splash, isn't that correct?
    next, if the rod doesn't load on short casts with a 2wt. rod using a 2wt. line, why not cut the front taper down shorter so the line will load better and still give you the 2wt line advantage? 
    i would think you could do this with cutting down a 4wt.dt. line taper also?
    i'm not being a smart arse, i'm just curios. i also hope i'm not hijacking this thread because i'm still interested in the rods guys use for certain conditions.
    anyhow my 4wt. powel rod throws a 4wt. line just great.

    great post by the way!!
    post edited by doubletaper - 2008/02/13 22:29:46

    http://streamsidetales.bl...015/05/helles-yea.html
    it's not luck
    if success is consistent 





    #15
    Fisherboy86
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/14 16:09:01 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: doubletaper

    question, i never had enough money to buy a bunch of different wt. and tapered lines to experiment with. my question is
    if you got a 2wt. rod why would you want to put a 4wt. line on it? why not get a 3wt or 4wt. rod? it's the line that hits the water so a bigger fly line a bigger splash, isn't that correct?
    next, if the rod doesn't load on short casts with a 2wt. rod using a 2wt. line, why not cut the front taper down shorter so the line will load better and still give you the 2wt line advantage? 
    i would think you could do this with cutting down a 4wt.dt. line taper also?
    i'm not being a smart arse, i'm just curios. i also hope i'm not hijacking this thread because i'm still interested in the rods guys use for certain conditions.
    anyhow my 4wt. powel rod throws a 4wt. line just great.

    great post by the way!!

     
     
    DT,
     
    Putting a 4wt line on a 2wt rod will help it load up close and personal on a tiny stream. However, do you really need to load the rod to cast 10'-15'? Probably not. There are pros and cons to both sides. Mainly, it will help a not so good caster do better in the tight spots.
     
    Cutting the taper down on the 2wt line will not load the rod any better. This is what it will do....
     
    1. Make the line lighter. With less overall line, the rod will not load as much up close because there is not as much weight.
     
    2. Cut off the transfer of energy. With a 10' tapered tip...the energy gets funnelled down to nothing, providing a smooth and delicate presentation. With a short 2' taper, the energy gets transfered down very quickly, giving you an aggressive turnover for punching out big bugs. If you cut the taper down totally and do NOT make a leader to properly match it, you may get a "tuck cast" each time. This will be similar to casting a line without a leader. Without the leader, the energy does not get transfered down to nothing, so when it's still "kicking and moving" full force at the end of the loop's turnover, it keeps going, making the line "tuck under" itself.
     
    In other words, buy a line recommended for the type of fishing you will be doing. With all the varieties, you can get anything you want.
     
    Or, take a casting class with a Certified Master Casting Instructor and learn to cast any rod, with any line, like a pro. 
     
     
    Best,
    Michael Foreman
    #16
    thedrake
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/14 17:06:23 (permalink)
    There's a lot of good rods out there. I have had the oppurtunity to cast a bunch of them through guiding, and through test casting rods before I buy them. I gotta say, the trend toward high end rods getting faster and faster is not a good thing. A fast rod will not protect light tippet like a more moderately actioned rod will. In PA we often have to go down to 6x and 7x to fish midges and tricos. If your fishing a fast rod, you might as well forget it. Rod companies seem to be forgetting that rods have to do more than cast well, they also have to fish well. There is a big difference.
     
    I just bought a Loomis GLX 9' 9wt for stripers, it isn't a pretty rod, but it will shoot a 90ft line with ease, occassionally with about 15ft of backing going through the guides as well. I just wish I could figure out what is holding me back from that extra 15ft the rest of the time. I dont think I would buy a GLX for trout, but this rod should fish well for what its intended for.
     
    My overall favorite rod I own, is a 8.5' 5wt RL Winston WT. I dont think there is a better graphite trout rod made. In the right hands it will cast a 90ft line, but is best suited for 60ft and under casts, which are the most common here in PA. I can fish a 7x without having to worry about breaking off fish on a regular basis. I fish this rod more than any others I own.
    #17
    doubletaper
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/14 17:37:33 (permalink)
    fisherboy, thanx for your explanation.i understand about using 1wt up or down for any given rod.
    i've been flyfishing for over 25 some years. sometimes someone gives a set up they use that gets me scratching my head even though it might work for them it gets me confused as to why. 
    i, myself, have no problem with casting the rods i own either be it small brook streams to wide rivers or ponds. ~dt

    http://streamsidetales.bl...015/05/helles-yea.html
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    if success is consistent 





    #18
    greenie
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/17 19:28:15 (permalink)
    I am a novice, started in the salt 2yrs ago with a fast 9' scott sts. Just got a 4wgt moderate fast combo for trout, bass etc. It came lined with discontinuted Orvis siver label 4 wgt wf.  I am thinking about switching to 4wgt Rio Grande, but have not yet cast the combo, so don't know how it will go. I am thinking since the Rio is a half line wgt hearvier than labeled, I will feel it load and avoid the problem I have trying to feel the scott load with 9wgt orvis intermediate and 300gr. orvis depth charge. Also, I think I will generally throw size 4-12 numphs and streamers like wooly buggers. What do you guys think? 
    #19
    casts_by_fly
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/19 09:56:15 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: doubletaper

    question, i never had enough money to buy a bunch of different wt. and tapered lines to experiment with. my question is
    if you got a 2wt. rod why would you want to put a 4wt. line on it? why not get a 3wt or 4wt. rod? it's the line that hits the water so a bigger fly line a bigger splash, isn't that correct?
    next, if the rod doesn't load on short casts with a 2wt. rod using a 2wt. line, why not cut the front taper down shorter so the line will load better and still give you the 2wt line advantage? 
    i would think you could do this with cutting down a 4wt.dt. line taper also?
    i'm not being a smart arse, i'm just curios. i also hope i'm not hijacking this thread because i'm still interested in the rods guys use for certain conditions.
    anyhow my 4wt. powel rod throws a 4wt. line just great.

    great post by the way!!

     
     
    DT,
     
    First, you pick your fly line based on the size of the flies you are throwing.  No matter how gentle of a presentation you want for bonefish, you still need a 6 wt to throw the flies you're dealing with.  The same for brookie streams.  In the summer I'll throw a #8 hopper in a brookie stream.  That doesn't work so well on a 2 wt line, let alone 5' of a 2 wt line plus 6' of leader.  Plus, almost all of my brookie spots are not super delicate fishing.  They are mostly tumble pools and under cut trees/banks where the fish will tollerate a 4 or 5 wt line hitting the water.
     
    Second, while the 6'6" forecast/rainshadow/pac bay are all rated for a 2 wt line, if you measure them on the common cents system they are higher.  My rainshadow comes in a 4.0 on the scale, dead between a 3 and 4 wt at 30'.  The forecast comes in closer to a true 3 and the pac bay is similar.  So while they are labeled 2 wt, in actuality they are a bit more powerful than that.
     
    I don't like to cut down my lines.  I use them on various rods, so I keep them original unless the particular line really needs help.  Then I prefer to get rid of the line for something else.  Cutting the tip off of a line will put more weight up front.  Most fly lines have a 10-15' front taper and tip before they get to the main body of the belly section.  If you cut it back to the belly from the start you're putting more weight in front.
     
    To Mike's point, you can cast any rod with any line if you have the ability (and don't seriously overline the rod).  I once had to fish a 7 wt rod on the breeches because my 3 wt broke.  I put my 3 wt line on it and was just fine.  It worked, but wasn't nice.  You can make about anything work.  But why make it work and fight it when you can do it right from the start and have it a lot easier?
     
    Thanks
    Rick
    #20
    doubletaper
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/19 10:42:41 (permalink)
    c_b_f, gotha! i just never went 2 line sizes either way on my rods. i'll use a #18 dry to a #10 weighted woolly bugger with the same rod and line and have no problem. thanks for the explanation though. like i said i don't experiment much but knowing why and how may solve a problem later on. ~dt 
     
    btw, the reason i asked about cutting the front taper back some is because if you don't feel the rod load on short casts there is not enough weight in the exposed line that you are trying to cast. thus i would think cutting the line back to get a little of the belly out of the tip would give a little more weight to load the rod when casting small flies. not sure if i'm right or not?
    post edited by doubletaper - 2008/02/19 10:49:21

    http://streamsidetales.bl...015/05/helles-yea.html
    it's not luck
    if success is consistent 





    #21
    indsguiz
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/19 11:40:02 (permalink)
    doubletaper
           I have, on occasion cut the tip of my fly line back and I have also shortened the length of my leader by cutting back the butt end.  Yu are right that does put more weight forward but it can result in slapping the water with more force than before.  If a dainty presentation is not important, and it works for you (did for me) then do it.  On many of the brookie streams I fish; the initial cast can be as short as 12 feet but then I have to strip line like mad to work the line under laurel and hemlocks.   I've even gone as short as 4' of leader and then just stripped extra line as needed.  
          In addition, if you're a cheap SOB like me cuting back the tip of the fly line can give you some more time using the line if you like it.

    Illegitimis Non carborundum
    #22
    avidangler
    Expert Angler
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/19 17:49:30 (permalink)
    1 custom made rainshadow 7' 9" 3 weight
    1 custom rainshadow 8' 5 weight
    1 g loomis gl2 9' 5 weight
    1 lst 9' 6 4 piece
    1 10' avid 7wt 4 piece
    1 10' 8wt custom made rainshadow
    1 Redington RS2 9' 10wt
     
    These are just the rods I fish anymore that haven't been swept aside or been broken by myself.  Out of all them I love the 3wt and fish it for trout anytime I can.  The others all have their place in my arsenal but i've don't flyfish as much as I used to.  Trout fishing is 90% of my flyfishing anymore, with bass, salmon and steelhead being the rest. I also do 90% of my trout fishing with a fly rod.  They have all their time and place in my mind but a knowledgeable fisherman will catch just as many fish w a $100 rod as a guy with a $600 rod IMO.  I've been a gear junkie for years and will probably never change... I should spend more money on fishing trips then on fishing gear......

    Born to fish, Forced to work...

    "Balls deep, or why even bother"
    #23
    Thats_Hot
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/21 08:44:26 (permalink)
    Fisherboy said, "However, do you really need to load the rod to cast 10'-15'?  Probably not."  If that Q & A were true, you could just take a pool cue fishing on brookie streams.  I remember seeing Doug from Fly Fishers Paradise trying to tell everyone on their forum that fast rods were best for all situations.  He said the fisherman loads the rod, not the line.  WTF?  In my opinion, he really made an****out of himself and showed he doesn't have a clue about rod action.  Slower rods are better for smaller streams.  They flex more so the tip of your rod and subsequently the fly line travel at a lower height (also a good reason to use shorter rods) and they load better with less line.  A good small stream rod (glass or grass, again, in my opinion) will cast a 12' leader accurately with no fly line out.  Try doing that with a pool cue.
    #24
    sagebrush
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/21 16:56:58 (permalink)
    Hey guys, great discussion.  You should check out my website http://fly-rod-review.com/.
    There's some good reviews on there. It is in need of some new reviews.  Feel free to add some.  Thanks
    #25
    thedrake
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    RE: Rod talk 2008/02/21 21:16:03 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: Thats_Hot

    Fisherboy said, "However, do you really need to load the rod to cast 10'-15'?  Probably not."  If that Q & A were true, you could just take a pool cue fishing on brookie streams.  I remember seeing Doug from Fly Fishers Paradise trying to tell everyone on their forum that fast rods were best for all situations.  He said the fisherman loads the rod, not the line.  WTF?  In my opinion, he really made an****out of himself and showed he doesn't have a clue about rod action.  Slower rods are better for smaller streams.  They flex more so the tip of your rod and subsequently the fly line travel at a lower height (also a good reason to use shorter rods) and they load better with less line.  A good small stream rod (glass or grass, again, in my opinion) will cast a 12' leader accurately with no fly line out.  Try doing that with a pool cue.


    I think I remember reading Doug's post about fast rods. I cant believe anyone takes him seriously....afterall, he does look a little like "Corky" from that old show "life goes on".

    All kidding aside, fast rods for PA trout are overrated and are popular mostly becase of marketing in magazines rather than how they fish.
    post edited by thedrake - 2008/02/21 23:48:14
    #26
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