Replacing A Transom

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jlh42581
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2008/01/21 15:00:11 (permalink)

Replacing A Transom

Ok guys, bought this used 14ft john boat and the transom on the inside looks to be original wood. The outside is still rivited metal. Its looking pretty aged and I know that im going to use ply glassed to replace it. How do i get the wood out. Do i drill out the rivets and take the wood out replacing the rivets with stainless bolts, washers and seal it up good? Ive been searching for a solution but everyone talks about glass boats or boats that have a full wooden transom, nothing about this situation.
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    Trout About
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 15:38:43 (permalink)
    That's what I did when I rebuilt an old Starctaft.  I didn't use ply though, I used a treated 2x12.  Took off the aluminum corner caps and metal strip over the old wood.  Drilled out the rivits that interfered with transom board removal.  Used the old transom as a pattern to cut out the new one.  Bolted back together with stainless bolts.  I'll post a pic of it when I get home from work.
    #2
    Dream Catcher
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 15:44:22 (permalink)
           I would use a sawsall cut out the rivets as well about an inch below when your into good metal grind to bare metal ; find an old piece of plastic ( I use tub surrounds ) cut to size of existing transom. Attach 2x6 boards to to inside of transom , anchor solid to your left / right bows ( bolt) buy fiber glass tiger hair and mold the presized piece of plastic to your reinforcment boards. Do not be affraid to use multiple layers of tiger hair depending on your comfort level with your work. If you need more stability add more boards on the outside of your new fibergflass transom . Bolt through & all together.  
    #3
    mikeg
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 15:59:33 (permalink)
    The above suggestions are good...
     
    To add a few things,
     
    If you want an easier way to do it.....Take it to sombody who can weld, and just weld a steel plate on the back. This will add a bunch of support to your transom and should last a long time. This will save you a lot of time and money compaired to building a new transom all together. Of coarse it depends on how bad the transom is. If it's just a little "soft" than it will work fine. But if it is completely rotted than don't do it this way. Replace it....
     
    Whichever way you replace it, don't use a solid piece of wood that is glassed over.
    Instead, resin about 8 pieces of 1/4 inch plywood together.(more or less depending on how thick the transom you need).
     
    Start with peices pre-cut a little larger than the transome will be.
    Take two pieces and resin them together. Clamp them together and let them dry. Add another peice of wood, clamp all three together and let them dry. Repeat this process untill you've reached your desired thickness. Once it is complete, use a jig saw to cut to the fitted size. Fiberglass the outside and you're done. But BEFORE you fiber glass the finished transom, round the edges with a belt sander or grinder. You will have a helluva time getting the glass to lay over the edges if you don't.
     
    You will have a lot stronger transom by doing it this way. AS far as installing it, trout about was correct.

    For my fishing reports, product reviews, stories, and other nonsense...
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    #4
    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 16:32:26 (permalink)
    I knew you guys would have an answer. If I may ask, why NOT use a solid piece of wood. That seems like it would be more durable and water resistant. As for the glass over top... do I need to lay the actual cloth or can I just mix the resin and paint it on. I didnt plan on using the cloth. Just the resin as a sealer.
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    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 16:34:21 (permalink)
    Correct me if I am wrong but you shouldnt use treated wood in an alumnium boat because it creates a chemical reaction which eats aluminum.
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    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 16:52:36 (permalink)
    If anyone wants to follow the rebuild of this boat and trailer I will be posting it all on my forum.

    http://forums.outdoorintegration.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=60
    #7
    mikeg
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 16:57:45 (permalink)
    "I knew you guys would have an answer. If I may ask, why NOT use a solid piece of wood. That seems like it would be more durable and water resistant. As for the glass over top... do I need to lay the actual cloth or can I just mix the resin and paint it on. I didnt plan on using the cloth. Just the resin as a sealer. "
     
    A solid piece if wood is never perfect. It can be warped or have a crack in it.
     
    Sheets of wood bonded together a 10 x stronger than a solid piece of wood. And won't warp or crack.
    The cloth will provide more strength. Besides, if you are gonna mix resin you might as well add it. It won't add any more work.
     
     
    "Correct me if I am wrong but you shouldnt use treated wood in an alumnium boat because it creates a chemical reaction which eats aluminum."
     
    I'm no chemist but I don't think so.
    Don't use treated wood because it's a waste of money. If you glass it, it won't rot.
    Just make sure that the wood is dry and stored at room temp before working with it.
     
     

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    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 17:10:29 (permalink)
    Ok, thanks again mike, good deal.

    I would appreciate it very much if any of you guys who have knowledge about this stuff join my forums also. Not trying to compete with this forum cause I love it but mine doesnt have near the traffic and like I said, I wanna do a central point for this build so that maybe someone in the future can follow it and have all these answers.

    If any of you guys sign up, please drop your comments from here into the topic.

    Thanks again EVERYONE.
    #9
    mikeg
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 17:29:34 (permalink)
    Good luck with your boat. If I can help in any way let me know.
     
    Sometimes, fixing up an old boat is a lot more fun than a brand new one.
    Just remember one thing....
     
    The only thing better than owning a boat is having a good friend that owns one. It's a lot cheaper that way...lol

    For my fishing reports, product reviews, stories, and other nonsense...
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    MuskyMastr
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 19:21:59 (permalink)
    I did mine in my 16' sylvan 9 years ago.  BE SURE to try and get the old one out as intact as possible to use as a template.  I used regular 3/4 plywood, cut out two copies glued and then screwed them together and then soaked it down with thompsons H2O sealer about 2gal worth in 10 coats.  It still looks brand new and handles my 60 hp and 9.9 well. 

    Better too far back, than too far forward.
    #11
    2dog
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 19:28:30 (permalink)
    When you bolt the transom back on use fender washers on both sides. They're the big washers with a little hole in the center. That way you are spreading the pressure over a larger area than a regular washer. They're found in most hardware stores.
    #12
    pghmarty
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 19:32:32 (permalink)
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    Trout About
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 20:58:29 (permalink)
    Jeremy,
     
    I don't have any pics of it being built.  I don't know where they went.  All I have is a pic of the finished boat, and you can't see the work cause it's below the deck.  Sorry.
     
    Scott
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    parker31
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 22:21:08 (permalink)
    i just bought a 12 foot john boat and i did the transom the same way as trout about
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    parker31
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/21 23:57:07 (permalink)
    jlh
     
    we have the same boats and i am doing work to mine to. i  was wondering if you could let me know on how you are going to do your casting deck
    #16
    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/22 10:56:07 (permalink)
    Im going to put braces in between the seats of glassed 2X4's also boxing to create storage areas, glass a sheet of ply, cut the hatches screw it down and carpet it. Countersink the screws, epoxy them so they dont rust. I plan to run the wires down the sides using conduit, and install a bilge pump. Sign up for the forum. Im going to do the whole boat/trailer from start to finish on it. EVERYTHING!
    #17
    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/22 11:00:53 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: pghmarty

    Anyone use King Starboard?
    Cut it and prep is done, wont rot, chip or break.


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/King-Starboard-All-Colors-Thicknesses-and-Sizes_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26448QQihZ013QQitemZ230214473641QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW



    I am looking into that for sure. I asked the guy for a rough esitmate on price. That may be the TICKET!
    #18
    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/22 11:41:58 (permalink)
    Roughly... $140, if it lasts forever though its worth it.
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    pghmarty
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    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/22 17:01:45 (permalink)
    I guessed at what I needed, gonna get measurements tonight... i said 4ft longX 2ft high 3/4, figured I could use extra. That price was shipped to the house also.
    #21
    MuskyMastr
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/22 17:20:50 (permalink)
    How does the thickness to strength ration compare to plywood?  I am wondering, because I have some large in deck comparments on my 25' that need new covers....

    Better too far back, than too far forward.
    #22
    pghmarty
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/22 17:24:23 (permalink)
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-4-X-24-X-60-BLACK-STARBOARD-X-L-MARINE-GRADE_W0QQitemZ230177566804QQihZ013QQcategoryZ26448QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

    3/4" X 24" X 60" BLACK STARBOARD X.L. MARINE GRADE $79.95 + 28.95 UPS Ground
    A little cheaper and the extra can be used elsewhere.
    It is black
    #23
    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/23 10:06:49 (permalink)
    I measured last night...

    I need a

    54" wide
    18" high
    1 1/4" piece
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    jlh42581
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/01/23 19:14:57 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: Trout About
    Took off the aluminum corner caps and metal strip over the old wood.


    How did you go about this. Mine are welded. Ive also got a brace coming up from the bottom that looks like without cutting the top off I am going to have to remove it to get the old rotten wood out. I have to wonder if thats a good idea to take rivets out of the bottom of the boat. Im actually thinking maybe it would be better to cut the brace, jam a glassed 2X4 inside the brace and attach it to the transom... thoughts anyone?

    I actually measured just the factory piece of wood today and although the transom is 18" the board is only 12. Which makes me think that since Im only going to have a little 5hp on the back that Trouts idea of one solid board would be ok except I dont own a planer to get it down to size. Kingstarboard doesnt come in the size I need so I guess Ill be glueing sheets together. Its roughly 1/3 of the cost to do glassed wood.

    Mike, I went and got some glass. I chose not to use the fabric because I only want to use it as a sealer, stuff is super expensive. Im buidling a new licence plate holder/ light bar for the trailer out of a 2X2. The glass is drying as I type. I plan to mount the lights to it and the plate. I wanted something that looks better then this twisted mess of metal scraps thats on it now. Creation, before and after of this will be shown too.
    post edited by jlh42581 - 2008/01/23 19:23:47
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    pghmarty
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    Porktown
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/02/15 15:15:43 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: mikeg
    Take it to sombody who can weld, and just weld a steel plate on the back.

     
    Not sure if you have done this yet.  But you shouldn't put steel and aluminum in contact with water - galvanic corrosion.  It's frowned upon in construction, so would imagine it's not good to do on a boat. 
    #27
    mikeg
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/02/15 15:37:05 (permalink)
    Are you saying that the two together in water will cause problems? If so, I didn't know that.
     

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    Porktown
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/02/15 16:30:59 (permalink)
    Here's an explanation of it.  You are always better off having the same metal touching when exposing it to elements.  You can put a buffer material in between, but not sure if that would work for a boat.  For something like an aluminum backsplash and stainless steel countertop, you can have caulking seperating the two, but still be water proof.  Not sure you want to do that with your boat, especially a transom that is going to be taking on most of the motor's torque.  I don't know if the welding rods provide some sort of buffer between the two.  If so, then doing this would be fine.  I know they make arc welding rods for dissimilar metals, but don't think they are intended for outdoor applications.   
     
    Looking at this chart, it appears, that steel and aluminum would be fine together (only 2 apart).  Although the second chart using galvanized steel wouldn't be a good idea, nor does stainless steel look to be a good idea.  I would definitely find a materials engineering buddy to run it past before doing it though.  You probably don't want to learn the hard way, in the middle of a lake...

    http://www.galvanizeit.org/showContent,173,215.cfm
    post edited by Porktown - 2008/02/15 16:40:12
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    mikeg
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    RE: Replacing A Transom 2008/02/15 17:21:18 (permalink)
    Great info...thanks for sharing it!

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    #30
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