Aluminum Deck

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Finster
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2008/04/08 18:43:27 (permalink)

Aluminum Deck

Well, the deck the boat needs replaced. I have a 16' Sea Nymph an '88 I think. I put some blowout patches in it today in hopes of getting through the summer. I was thinking of replacing the 1/2" plywood with 1/8" Aluminum plate. It only cost a few bucks more and I can still glue new carpet to it. Any thought's? I figure that I will never have to replace it again if I do this. Plus it will save a few pounds. Has anyone done the same thing?
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    Carpet Bagger
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/08 18:49:02 (permalink)
    I dunno...I probaly would stick to the wood....on an 88 figure if you replace it the next set should last you another 20+ years....

    CB
    I never thought I'd say this, but I love my Sport-Craft!
    #2
    jlh42581
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/08 18:59:27 (permalink)
    You can get alumnium plate that cheap? It only cost me $100 total to do the entire inside of a 14ft. Is the boat aluminum?
    #3
    saltflyfisher
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/08 19:02:44 (permalink)
    Your biggest concern is support for the alu.. Your have to add more support to hold the alu. in place and w/ that there goes any weight savings. Do a quick test stand on a 1/2 ply w/ the same overall supports as the boat currently has and do the same w/ the alu.. This will give you the answer.
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    Finster
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/08 19:16:54 (permalink)
    Most of my supports are about 12" apart. I would probably go with thicker plate before putting in more supports. However, I think 1/8" will be sturdy enough. Plywood is around $100 a sheet at 84 lumber. I think I can get plate for around $150. I'm not sure about the noise factor. If I do this I may put rubber washers between the supports and floor.
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    ShutUpNFish
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/08 20:34:57 (permalink)
    How about polypropelene about 1/2" thick?  You know, like the stuff they use for cutting boards....should last forever and less risk of electric shock due to a cunductor like aluminum.   Just a thought.

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    pghmarty
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/08 21:02:07 (permalink)
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    Finster
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/08 21:57:25 (permalink)
    Thanks pghmarty I'll check it out
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    MuskyMastr
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/09 01:30:24 (permalink)
    I always wanted to replace with aluminum and then have it rhino-lined.  My floor just hasn't got bad enough to try it yet.  That would cut way down on the noise too.

    Better too far back, than too far forward.
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    Brad1
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/09 11:43:13 (permalink)
    I would not use king starboard.
     
    1st off, it's heavy.
    2nd, it flexes a good bit.
    3rd, it would be very slippery to walk on.
    4th, it is expensive.
     
    King starboard is nice for panels, but I would not consider it for a floor on a boat. It's not a coincidence that not a single manufactorer uses starboard for boat flooring.
     
    If it were me, I'd go with marine grade plywood. You'll be good for another 20 yrs.
    #10
    jlh42581
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/09 13:18:16 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: Finster

    Most of my supports are about 12" apart. I would probably go with thicker plate before putting in more supports. However, I think 1/8" will be sturdy enough. Plywood is around $100 a sheet at 84 lumber. I think I can get plate for around $150. I'm not sure about the noise factor. If I do this I may put rubber washers between the supports and floor.


    A 4'X8'X1/2" sheet of hard wood ply is about $30 at lowes. Coat it in water sealer or fiberglass resin and your good to go, you dont NEED marine grade ply.
    post edited by jlh42581 - 2008/04/09 13:19:14
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    MuskyMastr
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/09 13:56:14 (permalink)
    I used standard ply to replace a transom for a friend who was low on cash.  Used about 5 coats of thompsons waterseal.  That was 9 years ago.  It still looks new.......that is an option.
     
    I still think rhino-liner would look awesome

    Better too far back, than too far forward.
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    jlh42581
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/11 08:06:24 (permalink)
    ORIGINAL: MuskyMastr

    I used standard ply to replace a transom for a friend who was low on cash.  Used about 5 coats of thompsons waterseal.  That was 9 years ago.  It still looks new.......that is an option.

    I still think rhino-liner would look awesome


    Thats how I did my transom, glad to hear it worked out.
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    SlipperySmitt
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    RE: Aluminum Deck 2008/04/11 22:30:07 (permalink)
    1/8" ALU on 12" centers will be strong enough to hold the heaviest! Don't use old screw holes and buy a quality self tapping stainless screw. Though they are not the cheapest. If you want to, make sure you get flat heads. go through both sheets before tightening, then back out and add a small countersink that fits your screw. Then run down till tight. Expertiment with the clutch on your drill so you don't strip the screws out. If gluing to ALU, get some nasty course sanding or grinding disc's. Your glue will stick and stay put for quite a while! The thing with raw ALU is coursion (SP). It depends upon how much you want to spend and how long you're going to keep the boat.
     
    Wood, well, anyone can get it. ANyone can treat it or think they can! Depends upon what, where, and how much you want to work with it. May last long for some, but ask about use and such. Marine grade or treated in my opinion coated with "Thompson's" will out perform. Wood (raw) with "Thompson's) will last, the lenght is determined by use and future treatments.
     
    Wood, most anyone can work with. Not everyone has the tools to work with (meaning cut and fit) ALU. If supports have to be added to wood, the weight goes up tremndusly, the same is not hte fact with ALU. The key with ALU is how and where you fasten and atually can be said of any material.
     
    Polypropelyene (SP), I've worked with much. Again, inorder to get half way decent glue to stick to it, you better prepare it right! If you're thinking about weight, forget it! If that is your factor, go with wood before PolyPro! It will outlast either if NOT IN THE SUN! Unless you can get the UV stuff and then cost, even without the UV added in will scare you.
     
    Naturally, most of this depends upon where you may work.
     
     
     
    Smitty
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