Double Bunny

There was a request a while back for a tute on a double bunny so since I got all my other ties finished for a swap - I thought I'd put this up. Besides I love tying with bunny strips. The thing I've learned about tying with the strips is that preparing the material, technique on tying them in, and how I store them can make all the difference and I hope I can cover it all with this tutorial.

First of all to tie these, you must use the correct type of rabbit strips. They must be straight cut and not crosscut. The crosscut is mostly used for "winding" on the hook. The straight cut is used for placement on the top and in this case also the bottom of the hook shank. They should be labled as such on the bag they come in.

Storing the straight cut strips.
 
When you get the strips, the bag they come in most likely will cause the strips to "kink" or bend. What I do is hang them off the shelf as soon as I get them - attaching a office binder clip to the bottom which gives it weight. They should straighten out in a few days. Kinks or bends in the strip will only make it harder to work with. In the materials pic you can see that the black was hung and the yellow/orange bar dyed was not. I had to cut a straight section out of the bar dyed for this tie.

Materials:
 


1. Prepare the tips for the top and bottom strips.
When you cut a section of the strip for tying, I find it best to angle off the corners.






2. Start the thread on the hook at the point shown and using figure 8 wraps, tie in the dumbell eyes.



3. Work your thread to the rear of the hook.
When tying the double bunny pattern - there is usually a "seperation" or gap between the top and bottom strips when the fly is completed. Personally, I like to fill this gap in with marabou.
Tie in a clump of marabou with three wraps. Then lay your top strip on top of the hook shank. Untie and adjust the marabou for length. The marabou tips should be the same length as the hair on the strip. Retie in the marabou at the correct length.
The arrow shows the end of the hide. There should be about 1/4 inch of it sticking out past the hook bend.






4. Seperate the hair at the correct tie in point and take 6 tight wraps - one on top of the other to secure the strip making sure the ends of the hair are even with the marabou. Then work the thread in even wraps forward to the dumbell eyes.



5. While holding the strip forward under tension seperate the hair with a bodkin. Try and make sure the hair is completely seperated at the tie in point - too far forward will make the hair flare out.

As shown:

Not enough hair seperated from the hide as shown by the arrow.



The correct amount of hair seperated from the hide:



6. Tie the strip in close to the eyes with approx. 6 tight wraps.
 


7. Pull the strip over the eyes and seperate the hair as described above. Tie this in using approx. 6 tight wraps.
 


8. Using the angle of the hook eye as a gauge - angle cut the strip. Do not cut it straight across. It will make it hard to finish the head. Cut it close enough so that there is a small space of bare hook shaft. Move the thread to this point and whip finish off.
 




9. Remove the hook from the vice and lay it next to your bottom strip. Adjust the bottom strip so that the tips of the hair match the tips of the fly tied so far. With your bodkin, slightly prick a hole where the hook will be inserted. This point should be equal to the tie in point of the top strip. Then pierce the hide completely through. This will help in getting the hook through the hide.
 




10. Insert the hook point into the hole you created with the bodkin - hide side facing up - and work it up around the hook bend and pull it snugly against the tie in point of the top strip.
 




11. Restart the thread at the hook eye and work it back to just in front on the dumbell eyes. Pull the bottom strip taught, seperate the hide as explained in step 5 and tie the bottom strip in with approx. 6 tight wraps.
 




12. Trim off the bottom strip as close to the thread wraps as possible without cutting the thread.



13. Begin to form the head by tying down the hide. Tie in some guinea for the throat. Finish forming the head. Whip Finish and cement.
 



 
 

ooooo he's doin arrows now

very nice clear steps! well done

curious about your eye placement and color combo
black will ride on top?

I like the. Eye placement.... Less hang up
I was inquiring about colors and which would ride on top

i wasn't making a dig... i was curious about the color combo

Yeah, thanks steely, that was a great step by step!  I really like the colors.  I just hope that mine turns out 1/2 as nice.  I'm thinking wounded perch look(green or chartreuse stripes on the top, and either gray or yellow belly).   Maybe some baby bluegills too.  Strips should be arriving in the mail soon, I can't wait!  I will have to post some pics when I get going on it, maybe you can help me with any details that I seem to be lacking.  I really enjoy tying large, gnarly(sorry if I sound like I am about to catch a wave) looking flies, and this will be my largest to date.  Can't wait to check the mail, then I will just have to wait for the ice to die in the spring.

a couple quick questions.  How hard is it to get something like this to sink?  I would like it to have a ton of action, I don't want it to drop too fast, but at the same time, I fear it just sitting on the surface.  I figure it is a fine line to walk, so I will try a few with just dumb bell eyes, and then maybe a few with some lead worked in.  Also do you think color is as important as presentation/action of the fly?  Maybe any color would trigger a hit, if it looks like it is an easy meal.

My goal for 2010, is a pike on the fly, from the canoe.  I want to thiank yinz guys for your help, both via PM and this Tute.  Should get me well on my way to my goal.