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garden growing - 6/10/2008 10:46:38 PM   
STEALYS4ME


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Hows everyones gardens growing this yr, mines growing great peppers are budding nice tomatos and  ques are doing great.  This warm wet spring is doing wonders
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RE: garden growing - 6/10/2008 10:54:44 PM   
peacymike

 

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did you pay your taxes this year on 50 acer's . i hope so i be up to pick when there ripe. you know where the only people that pay taxes  dream on

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RE: garden growing - 6/11/2008 8:00:17 AM   
kevinupp


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Had a rough start on my tomatoes. Not sure if they got caught up in the freeze, or if the plants I got were crappy.

Everything else is going wild.

I've only had to water my garden twice this year.
I really like it when mother nature waters for me.

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RE: garden growing - 6/11/2008 9:38:12 AM   
rapala11

 

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replanted by pole beans, carrots and squash, but they are all doing great.  my snow peas are slow, though. 

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RE: garden growing - 6/11/2008 10:54:09 AM   
ROCKHARD


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hey rap,,wanna sell those sno peas,,grew them few yrs back when i had a descent sized garden

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RE: garden growing - 6/11/2008 12:34:57 PM   
rapala11

 

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rock, sorry.  my daughter does not eat meat, so the garden is her fridge, so to speak.  funny, i am a hunter and fisherman. and she has a complete disdain for both.  i have even showed her a chapter in the book of genesis where it is okay, but she refuses.  my wife says it just means more meat for me....oh hurt me.

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RE: garden growing - 6/11/2008 2:44:40 PM   
Over the Hill


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Slow start for vegetables, lost a lot with the cold snaps. The wife's flower's this year are doing good. Squirrels and chippies really put a dent into the seed planting. Where are the hawks and Kestrals when I need them?

< Message edited by Over the Hill -- 6/11/2008 2:46:32 PM >


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RE: garden growing - 6/11/2008 7:47:59 PM   
rippinlip


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I hear ya about the chipmonks....they tore up some bulbs this year for me!! My veggies are doin good so far. My first year for a big garden. My neighbor dropped off 2 ton of horse manure and I tilled it in. Plants seem to like it. Grew some corn this year as well as pumpkins and onions. Tomatoes are starting to flower...can't wait!

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RE: garden growing - 6/11/2008 7:48:36 PM   
rippinlip


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Sorry, double post..

< Message edited by rippinlip -- 6/11/2008 7:57:03 PM >


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RE: garden growing - 6/11/2008 9:18:17 PM   
2dog

 

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Picked my first bunch of broccoli this evening. Got eleven out of twelve.

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RE: garden growing - 6/13/2008 8:41:23 PM   
STEALYS4ME


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Warm weather garden growing like hell have to put some suports up soon for the tomato plants.  May have to put up some help wanted  signs soon

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RE: garden growing - 6/15/2008 3:51:17 PM   
FisherChic


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it's a little warm for snow peas now, you want to plant them while it's still cool. not to mention that this June has been unseasonably warm.
if you still have seeds left, try them again at the end of the season.
my tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, broccoli, and brussel sprouts are all doing really well.
just put in seeds for cucumbers and summer squash. getting ready to plant my pole beans tomorrow.
I also just planted seeds for chives and coriander, and I have oregano and parsley laid out to dry.
my cats do a good job of keeping the critters out of the garden.



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RE: garden growing - 6/15/2008 6:52:58 PM   
71gto


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Can anyone tell me anything about planting pumpkins? The reason I ask, last year I bought a purple colored pumpkin and saved the seeds. I would like to try this as I never grew pumpkins before. I know I can look it up on the internet but I would like to know if anyone here was actually grown pumpkins and offer any suggestions.
 
Thanks,
71

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RE: garden growing - 6/15/2008 7:14:15 PM   
kevinupp


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If you've ever grown zucchini, pumpkins are basically the same thing when it comes to planting.

About 6-10 inches apart.

You should've had them in the ground by now, but you should still be able to get a fair crop if you plant them now.

You could try to start the seeds by putting a half inch of water in pie pan and putting them in it until the seeds start to grow roots, then plant.


If you want to maximize each vine pluck all but 1 or 2 of the flowers off when they come on.

Once they flower almost all the the effort goes into the fruit production. Picking all but a couple flowers off the vine will get you bigger pumpkins.


I've also heard of people, once the pumpkins start growing, cut the terminal end of the vine and sticking the end in a cup of milk. I never had any luck doing that though.


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RE: garden growing - 6/15/2008 7:15:25 PM   
Mikastorm


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Pumpkins grow best in a moist soil, rich in organic matter. If you are planting pumpkins in your garden, locate them at the edge of the garden plot where the vines can grow out and away from other garden plants. This will help conserve space. If you wish to prepare a small garden plot for planting pumpkins, mix in lots of organic matter. Bagged compost or manure works great to enrich the soil for planting. Mix as much as you can into the top 12 inches of soil. At the same time, also mix in 2 lbs. of ammonium phosphate or similar vegetable fertilizer for every 100 square feet of garden bed.


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RE: garden growing - 6/15/2008 7:21:11 PM   
pghmarty


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Once they start growing put the pumpkins on top of an upside down plastic container.
Less insects and the bottom wont rot.


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RE: garden growing - 6/15/2008 8:27:03 PM   
jackq

 

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If the pumpkin you got the seeds from was a hybrid you'll get a plant but MAY not get any pumpkins. Or you MAY get a different colored pumpkin reverting back to the original plants that were crossed to get the hybrid. It's a crap shoot!!!

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RE: garden growing - 6/15/2008 8:28:52 PM   
71gto


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Many Thanks Guys! I will give it a try. Over the years I have grown everything but pumpkins, never have a need to til now.
 
One last question, how long will those seeds I have last? Just curious, as I have been able to keep seeds for years and I am assuming I can do the same with these.
 
71

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RE: garden growing - 6/15/2008 11:24:28 PM   
HardCore Fisher


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My garden is going good as well, tomatoes an peppers on each plant, radishes and onions,  i am expieriencing difficulty with cucumbers and lettuce though, can't figure out why, can't wait for that fresh garden salad.

Ronnie

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RE: garden growing - 6/16/2008 11:26:16 AM   
Bughawk


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I got my garden in a little over a week ago.  The cold spring set me back a bit.  The beans and squash are coming up fine.  The tomato plants look pretty good and so do the peppers.  The eggplants don't seem to be growing as well.  I think I will give them a shot of fertilizer this week and see if that helps.

As for chippies in the garden, I have been able to remove 4 so far.  Those little buggers were eating my beans as they come up.  Also, I have a rabbit I am keeping an eye on.  Hopefully the woodchucks will stay out as well.  A chuck and mow down quite a few bean plants in one sitting.

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RE: garden growing - 6/16/2008 12:00:05 PM   
rapala11

 

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fisherchic, i planted my peas the second week of may.  this is my first real garden, so i think i may have been a little late on these.  they are starting to climb, so maybe i will get a few.  have heard that they should be in around st. pats day, yes?

anyone ever hear of using epson salt and water for hot pepper plants?



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RE: garden growing - 6/16/2008 12:36:24 PM   
kevinupp


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My FIL Epsom salts his entire garden every year.

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RE: garden growing - 6/16/2008 12:46:55 PM   
pghmarty


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By Charlie Nardozzi
After working with home gardeners for more than 10 years, I know that they love to use home remedies on their plants. From setting out beer traps for slugs to hanging bars of soap to repel deer, if the household product seems to work, gardeners try it. That's why I was intrigued by the often-mentioned idea of using Epsom salts as a fertilizer. Gardeners apply it to tomatoes, peppers, and roses, hoping to produce more flowers, greener plants, and higher yields. You can use it to improve magnesium content if you know you have a soil that's deficient in that element, but home gardeners are most likely to apply Epsom salts to peppers, tomatoes, and roses. I wanted to find out if it really works and learn the best ways to apply it for best growth, so last summer I asked some of our test gardeners (home gardeners who test seeds and products for National Gardening magazine) to test Epsom salts' effects on plant growth and vigor by applying it to pepper plants and roses. Then I talked to researchers about using the salts as fertilizer. Here's what I found out.


The History and Science of Epsom Salts
This natural mineral, discovered in the well water of Epsom, England, has been used for hundreds of years, not only to fertilize plants but to treat a range of human and animal ailments. Who hasn't soaked sore feet in it at least once? Chemically, Epsom salts is hydrated magnesium sulfate (about 10 percent magnesium and 13 percent sulfur). Magnesium is critical for seed germination and the production of chlorophyll, fruit, and nuts. Magnesium helps strengthen cell walls and improves plants' uptake of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur.
Sulfur, a key element in plant growth, is critical to production of vitamins, amino acids (therefore protein), and enzymes. It's also the compound that gives vegetables such as broccoli and onions their flavors. Sulfur is seldom deficient in garden soils in North America because acid rain and commonly used animal manures contain sulfur, as do chemical fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate. The causes and effects of magnesium deficiencies vary. Vegetables such as beans, peas, lettuce, and spinach can grow and produce good yields in soils with low magnesium levels, but plants such as tomatoes, peppers, and roses need high doses of magnesium for optimal growth. However, plants may not show the effects of magnesium deficiency until it's severe. Some common deficiency symptoms are yellowing of the leaves between the veins, leaf curling, stunted growth, and lack of sweetness in the fruit. Magnesium tends to be lacking in old, weathered soils with low pH, notably in the Southeast and Pacific Northwest. Soils with a pH above 7 and soils high in calcium and potassium also generally have low magnesium levels. Calcium and potassium compete with magnesium for uptake by plant roots, and magnesium often loses. Sometimes, a soil test will show adequate magnesium levels in soil, but a plant grown in that soil may still be deficient because of that competition. Gardeners add magnesium when they apply dolomitic lime to raise the soil's pH. However, this product (46 percent calcium carbonate, 38 percent magnesium carbonate) breaks down slowly, and the calcium can interfere with magnesium uptake. For soils with a pH above 7, many gardeners use Sul-Po-Mag (22 percent sulfur, 22 percent potassium, 11 percent magnesium) to increase magnesium. Although dolomitic lime and Sul-Po-Mag are inexpensive ways to add magnesium, Epsom salts' advantage over them is its high solubility. When diluted with water, and especially when applied as a foliar spray, Epsom salts can be taken up quickly by plants. Epsom salts' magnesium content, high solubility, and ease of application as a foliar spray are the main reasons for the positive results many gardeners see in their plants.

What Our Testers Found
To get a first-hand look at the effectiveness of Epsom salts in the garden, we asked six of our testers (in California, Colorado, Iowa, Pennsylvania, and Tennessee) to try Epsom salts on peppers and roses. Testers each grew six 'Gypsy' peppers. They applied 1 tablespoon of Epsom salts mixed with a gallon of water as a foliar spray to three plants at bloom time and again 10 days later. They also selected two established rose bushes of the same variety and sprayed the same amount of Epsom salts mixed with water to one bush every 6 weeks, starting when leaves came out and continuing through the summer (about 4 applications). We asked them to record the number of pepper fruits and rose blooms, and to note any differences they saw. Four out of the six testers reported that the Epsom salts-treated pepper plants and fruits were larger than the controls. For the treated roses, testers reported greener foliage, bushier plants, and more roses than on the control plants. Kathy Stone Downie of Alameda, California, noticed many differences in her treated 'Gypsy' peppers. "The fruits were much bigger, almost twice the size. They were juicier, sweeter, and triple the thickness of the untreated peppers." Tommy Owen, in Rogersville, Tennessee, said that his treated roses had greener foliage and bigger flowers with deeper colors.

Recent Studies of Epsom Salts Scientists are beginning to test its use.
Although many studies confirm that magnesium sulfate is a good way to supply magnesium and sulfur to soils deficient in those elements, little research has been done on the use of Epsom salts as a supplemental fertilizer on soils with adequate levels of these nutrients.
Renee Schloupt, horticulturist at Delaware Valley College in Doylestown, Pennsylvania, is testing peppers and tomatoes grown in a greenhouse environment under drought and nondrought conditions. She's comparing control plants with those watered with applications of 1, 2, and 3 tablespoons of Epsom salts mixed with 1 gallon of water and applied at planting, flowering, and fruit set. So far, she has not seen any measurable evidence of growth or yield differences in the treated tomatoes or peppers. "The peppers have greener leaves, and it seems the 1- and 2-tablespoon doses yield a better result than the 3-tablespoon dose, but I haven't seen any dramatic effects on yields so far," she says. "The magnesium in the Epsom salts applied to the soil could be getting tied up with other nutrients. We might see better results when we apply Epsom salts directly to the leaves." At Auburn University in Alabama, plant pathologist Kira Bowen and soil scientist Beth Guertal see similar results when they apply Epsom salts directly on the soil. They are conducting a 3-year study of roses in field plots that includes applying 1 cup of Epsom salts per plant per month as one of the treatments to increase plant vigor and control black spot. "The first year, we saw reduced defoliation in the Epsom salts-treated plants, but the second year the differences weren't there," Bowen reports. "This year [1997] will be the deciding year. I think it's hard to find a direct link between a specific nutrient such as magnesium sulfate and increased yield or plant growth because of all the other variables in the soil, such as pH, calcium and potassium content, and weather, that may affect the plants."

Is Using Epsom Salts Worth a Try?
In their studies, researchers applied Epsom salts directly to the soil. Foliar applications, such as those our test gardeners used, appear to be a better way to guarantee that the plants get the benefits of the added magnesium.
Before you try Epsom salts, test the soil to determine its magnesium content. Don't rely on Epsom salts to correct large soil magnesium deficiencies, but rather use it as a supplement to soils with adequate or slightly low magnesium levels to boost plant growth, flowering, and fruiting. For severely magnesium-deficient soils, use dolomitic lime or Sul-Po-Mag. Foliar applications of Epsom salts seem work better than adding it, dry or mixed with water, directly to the soil. Plants may not efficiently take up magnesium sulfate in granular form, especially in alkaline soils or soils that already test high in potassium, calcium, or magnesium. If you have tested your soil and know it has those qualities, a foliar application is a faster way to get the nutrients to the plant.

Roses Many rosarians agree that Epsom salts produces more new canes at the bottom of the plant (bottom breaks) and darker green foliage.
Recommendations on how much to use vary, but generally you can apply 1/2 cup of granules in spring before buds first begin to open and 1/2 cup in fall before leaves drop. Apply a foliar spray (1 tablespoon per gallon of water per foot of shrub height) after the leaves open in spring and again at flowering.
Tomato and Peppers Magnesium deficiency in the soil may be one reason your tomato leaves yellow between the leaf veins late in the season and fruit production slows down. Test your soil every 3 years or so to check on nutrient levels. Epsom salts can keep plants greener and bushier, enhance production of healthier fruit later in the season, and potentially help reduce blossom-end rot. Apply 1 tablespoon of granules around each transplant, or spray a solution of 1 tablespoon Epsom salts per gallon of water at transplanting, first flowering, and fruit set. Epsom salts are available in drug and grocery stores. Epsom salts work best on soils that are...
  • Slightly deficient in magnesium

  • Alkaline (show high pH) as in western areas

  • Old, "weathered," and acidic (with low pH) soils of the Southeast and Pacific Northwest

  • High in calcium and potassium (western soils)
Copyright 2000, National Gardening Association. All rights reserved.

< Message edited by pghmarty -- 6/16/2008 12:48:46 PM >

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RE: garden growing - 6/16/2008 1:48:50 PM   
rapala11

 

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as only you can marty.  thanks.  (btw, i am afraid of all your posts still, as i still have haunting nightmares of those hillary pics you cursed us with).

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RE: garden growing - 6/16/2008 2:56:02 PM   
pghmarty


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quote:

ORIGINAL: rapala11

as only you can marty.  thanks.  (btw, i am afraid of all your posts still, as i still have haunting nightmares of those hillary pics you cursed us with).



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RE: garden growing - 6/16/2008 11:46:05 PM   
rapala11

 

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that's it, another flashback.  i am banning you until you stop.

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RE: garden growing - 6/17/2008 11:45:34 AM   
FisherChic


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here's some info about growing peas. I only grew them once and I remember that I had them picked and frozen early in the season.
http://gardening.about.com/od/plantprofil2/p/Peas.htm

after reading that, I think I might try growing some in my flower bed in the front of the house..

i tried pumpkins last year, but had a problem with powdery mildew. I think it came from the cucumbers we bought at the nursery so we planted from seed this year.
I'm not trying pumpkins this year tho. I got a lot of little ones last year because I didn't know about pulling the blossoms off, but they say those make the best pie, and they sure did last year, for Thanksgiving.
I need to till more ground if I do pumpkins again.

I don't know how long seeds are good, but I had some seeds from one of my grandma's "Italian tomatoes" (what she called it) that have been dried on a paper plate for a couple years, I planted them this year and got 5 healthy plants. we'll see how they do.






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RE: garden growing - 6/17/2008 12:59:17 PM   
rapala11

 

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thanks, fisherchic.

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RE: garden growing - 6/18/2008 11:17:35 AM   
SlipperySmitt

 

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We started planting mid April and some of the stuff got a little stunted, but we missed the frost thankfully. Actually, we're still planting as we try to stager things. But then again, we have over 2 acres of sweet corn and over 1.5 acres of plants. Anyone need wholesale veggies for canning or what not, let me know.


Smitty

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RE: garden growing - 6/18/2008 8:53:45 PM   
jon_e_si

 

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I've always heard leaves (decomposing) are good for pumpkins, squash, etc. This year we're taking an old loader tire casing- in the center went a big German carp my son shot with a bow and dusted it with hydrated lime - on top of that went a bucket of horse manure - then a bunch of leaves- then dirt to hill it up -to be followed by the seeds. We'll try to post the results in the fall! Will try the tip about plastic under pumpkin, squash (roaster), etc.

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