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Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/15/2008 9:29:53 PM   
jlh42581


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From: Milesburg, Pa
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http://forums.outdoorintegration.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=60

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"The flies used for so discriminating a fish as the trout should, first of all, have the appearance of life."
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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/18/2008 3:57:54 PM   
jlh42581


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Got the new transom in yesterday. Man thats a lot of work start to finish. All the decks have been cut out. I hope to lay carpet this weekend.

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"The flies used for so discriminating a fish as the trout should, first of all, have the appearance of life."

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/19/2008 8:44:07 PM   
MuskyMastr


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Which parts of the transom project did you find the most difficult?

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/19/2008 9:28:39 PM   
pghmarty


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From: Bradford Pa then Pittsburgh
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ALUMALOY welding/brazing Rods are easier to use than most aluminum rods and only need propane.

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/20/2008 9:54:31 PM   
jlh42581


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quote:

ORIGINAL: MuskyMastr

Which parts of the transom project did you find the most difficult?


Drilling the rivets out by far were the worst. Then the next would have to be putting all those stainless steel bolts in to replace the rivets. They need washers and lock washers all which must be stainless and then you have to seal them before tightening them with 3m 5200 which is a complete mess. Cutting it out and gluing the pieces together was simple.


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Jeremy
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"The flies used for so discriminating a fish as the trout should, first of all, have the appearance of life."

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/20/2008 9:55:15 PM   
jlh42581


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I spent over $75 on stainless steel hardware for the boat.

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/20/2008 9:56:30 PM   
jlh42581


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quote:

ORIGINAL: pghmarty

ALUMALOY welding/brazing Rods are easier to use than most aluminum rods and only need propane.



I gave up on those things and bought myself some stuff thats an epoxy putty, seems like it will work just fine.

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/21/2008 1:02:12 AM   
MuskyMastr


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Strange that your rivets were that tough to get out, mine weren't bad at all.  Here is a word of advice you may not want to hear, but I don't think you should put stainless bolts in.  I am no metals expert, but I know some and there is sometimes a problem when the two different metals are in contact.  Something or other regarding the galvanic scale and the a bunch of other stuff I don't really know about, but someone here will.  Or google it, sorry....

BTW...I know what you mean about the price on that stuff I had over $200 in just screws for the wood on my 24'

< Message edited by MuskyMastr -- 4/21/2008 1:03:08 AM >


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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/21/2008 6:21:29 AM   
BIGHEAD


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jlh42581    I see you still need to do some wiring. Is what i did on my jonboat was drill a holes at designated spots on the top rail and run the wire threw. Saves on pcv and looks better than seeing pcv running threw the side ribs. Just use mechanics wire to run the wire. Then use garments and marine sealant. I never had any problems for over ten years with this method.   hope this helps   Dave

< Message edited by BIGHEAD -- 4/21/2008 6:29:01 AM >

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/21/2008 7:02:40 AM   
jlh42581


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quote:

ORIGINAL: BIGHEAD

jlh42581    I see you still need to do some wiring. Is what i did on my jonboat was drill a holes at designated spots on the top rail and run the wire threw. Saves on pcv and looks better than seeing pcv running threw the side ribs. Just use mechanics wire to run the wire. Then use garments and marine sealant. I never had any problems for over ten years with this method.   hope this helps   Dave


Dave,

Thanks for the ideas but you will see when i post pics in a couple days that the whole boat has panels, you cant see the wires at all.

As far as the stainless...I know exactly what you mean. I spent a good deal of time doing research where other guys have done these johns a couple of times. All of them recommended the stainless approach. I think someone here mentioned aluminum but I couldnt find aluminum bolts locally. A few other people have done it this way so I assume no one has ever had a problem. I have read that it can be a problem in a salt water environment or if you leave your boat in water for a long period of time. This thing sits on a trailer. Plus, if I see its becoming a problem I can remove them and replace with aluminum... thank god its just bolts now.


Heres something I found

"On my galvanic series, stainless is more noble than Aluminium, which means a small stainless bolt in a large aluminimum structure is the right proportion of metals to limit the galvanic corrosion."

I guess time will tell. They are in now, will be using them.


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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/21/2008 7:27:31 AM   
jlh42581


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Musky, you worried me a little bit. So, curriosity got the cat. I took the volt meter out to the boat this morning and put the probe on the bolt and touched the metal... a slight current. Put it on the washer and touched the metal, not much. Could pose a problem but! There is an eyebolt on top that someone ran through a long time ago. Apperently the I bolt is stainless while the nut is not. The nut is corroded but not to the point of destruction while the aluminum of the boat and the ibolt appear to be fine. I guess Ill have to watch closely.

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Jeremy
http://www.outdoorintegration.com

"The flies used for so discriminating a fish as the trout should, first of all, have the appearance of life."

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/21/2008 8:09:10 AM   
jlh42581


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quote:

ORIGINAL: BIGHEAD
Just use mechanics wire to run the wire


I actually bought marine grade tinned and double coated wire. Cost me about $20 for 50ft on ebay. Nice stuff!


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Jeremy
http://www.outdoorintegration.com

"The flies used for so discriminating a fish as the trout should, first of all, have the appearance of life."

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Post #: 12
RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/21/2008 8:52:40 PM   
2dog

 

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Question about the new transom. Did you bolt the outside and inside piece of plywood? If so, did you use regular washers or fender washers? The fender washers will let you torque down on the bolts without pulling the washer and nut into the wood.

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/21/2008 9:31:54 PM   
pghmarty


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Joined: 12/5/2004
From: Bradford Pa then Pittsburgh
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quote:

a small stainless bolt in a large aluminimum structure is the right proportion of metals to limit the galvanic corrosion.

Probably wrong-aluminum is similar to the sacrificial zink anodes on an I/O or outboard.
An electrician would never splice aluminum wire to copper for the same reason.

Use nylon washers to minimize contact.

Marine grade tinned and double coated wire is a good idea.
After a few years automotive wire seems to corode inside it's jacket.



< Message edited by pghmarty -- 4/21/2008 9:34:51 PM >

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/22/2008 1:05:42 AM   
MuskyMastr


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Sorry to scare you man.  My brother in law is the metals expert and he yelled at me for putting my soffet on my house with non aluminum nails.....I read about in on boats once too.  Glad you checked it out.

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/22/2008 11:07:48 AM   
jlh42581


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quote:

ORIGINAL: 2dog

Question about the new transom. Did you bolt the outside and inside piece of plywood? If so, did you use regular washers or fender washers? The fender washers will let you torque down on the bolts without pulling the washer and nut into the wood.


Its bolted strait through both. I used regular washers with lock washers as well. Its torqued, they didnt sink far. Im going to put up a ton of pics for you guys sometime this week.


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"The flies used for so discriminating a fish as the trout should, first of all, have the appearance of life."

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/22/2008 9:23:51 PM   
2dog

 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: jlh42581

quote:

ORIGINAL: 2dog

Question about the new transom. Did you bolt the outside and inside piece of plywood? If so, did you use regular washers or fender washers? The fender washers will let you torque down on the bolts without pulling the washer and nut into the wood.


Its bolted strait through both. I used regular washers with lock washers as well. Its torqued, they didnt sink far. Im going to put up a ton of pics for you guys sometime this week.




Reason I asked was I had to replace the transom on my uncle boat because it rotted. I replaced boat inside and outside plywood using stainless steel bolts the size of the rivets, which were I believe 6mm. Instead of using regular washer I used the fender washers, one at the bolt head and one at the nut. I've sunk a regular washer plus the nut already into treated lumber and plywood using both nut and bolt or lug screws. That's why I went with the fender washer since it would spread the force over a larger area without sunking into the wood past the washer.

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/22/2008 10:41:39 PM   
MuskyMastr


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Can't wait to see some pics.

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/23/2008 8:40:31 PM   
2dog

 

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Check his web site. It has some pics.
http://forums.outdoorintegration.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=60

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RE: Update On The Jon Boat Project - 4/24/2008 9:18:52 PM   
jlh42581


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From: Milesburg, Pa
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I finished it tonight. Put the last seat in. Well, I shouldnt say finished, the livewell isnt done but Im undecided. I kinda want the storage.

Ill put them up when I wake up. It looks pretty good in my opinion. I have to put my new fenders and tires on and then its headed to the lake.

Theres not too many step by step pictures but I will be willing to answer any questions anyone has about the build, ANYTIME.


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Jeremy
http://www.outdoorintegration.com

"The flies used for so discriminating a fish as the trout should, first of all, have the appearance of life."

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