rod handle building question..

Glue them all together then turn then bore carefully with a reamer.... 

Thanks Skip, I ordered all of my cork and my reel seat today. I think I may have screwed up on the reel seat though. I ordered a Pac bay A8 but I think the ID on the insert is going to be too small. If thats the case ill see if i can find a larger ID insert. I got your PM, Im sure Ill be given you a call when I start.

18andlife,
      This may sound condescending but when you glue up your rings, , , be sure to use waterproof cement.  I didn't; one time many moons ago:  and now you know the Rest of the Story.

I use Titebond 3, available at Lowes.  Rodbond is great too, but like you said, you can end up gluing the grip to the mandrel.  If you want to use Rodbond, apply it to the ring and then scrape it ALL off.  Each mating surface just needs to be wetted.  You don't need a thick "film" of epoxy in there for a good bond.  The less glue, the less likely to see glue lines once finished.

I start turning with a rasp to get everything concentric.  For sandpaper, I use 80,120, 180, 220, 320 and finish with 400.

Forgot to mention, I'm turning exotic burl, not conventional cork.  It's a little harder and more dense.  If turning real cork, I'd go with what Rick said.  80 grit would take off much too fast

Rod Bond is great glue but overkill and more work when gluing up the rings then needed.  Not to mention too easy to get glue lines.
 
Tight bond is very easy and you don't need waterproof tight bond either.  I've done hundreds with just Tight Bond.  If you use tight bond feel free to use plenty of pressure and don't be afraid to deform the cork.  Just take the grip off the mandrel and let it rest after 24 hours.  You should always take a grip off after glue-up to let it rest and regain it’s natural shape.  This keeps all inlays and different cork lines in-line and in proper orientation with the turn.  It also lets the glue dry in the bore and keeps you reaming stuff cleaner and less clogged up.
 
¼” threaded rod, some durlin,sp?, washers a spring and a wing nut will build you the best the tensioning devise you can have.  All can be picked up at a hardware store for a few dollars.  It doesn’t cause fuzzies on the thread.
 
Just my 2 cents.
 
Scott
 

Well I got my 13ft rainshadow blank today. Its in 2 pieces. So I need a ferrule joint. How do I choose the ferrule for this rod and what is the best way to install it? I googled this but didnt find anything. Any tips?

Oh, I thought there was some type of insert I had to put into female end of the blank to reinforce it. how long of a wrap should it be? Thank you and everyone else for answering my noob questions..

1x will do fine but I usually do 2X to account for a bit of ham fisted treatment.  3X gives you some room for something pretty.  With a bit of care in guide placement you should be able to get a guide on the ferrule and then you reduce the total weight you are putting on the blank.  I'd bet that I've built out more than 50 rods on that blank.

I thought you guys might want to see the reel seat for my 2wt  I had the rings custom made for me out  of Titanium...
 
I put the whole reel seat on my postal scale which measures 1/10 Oz  It wouldn't even register ...  I think Its light enough huh  LOL